Itasca, the Beginning

The morning mist of Lake Itasca.

Now that the first day of summer looms ahead of me, I drift back to where the trees are tallest, days are longest and water pours out over the rocks and starts an amazing journey to the Gulf of Mexico.
 Itasca State Park is Minnesota's oldest and most popular state park. The park was founded in 1891 to protect and commemorate the Headwaters of the Mississippi River.  The park with its geographical and historic appeal, its campgrounds, 50-miles of nature trails and peaceful lakes make it ideal for any type of north woods adventure.


It's easy to find Itasca State Park, located just north of Park Rapids, Minnesota.  But, in the days before it was mapped,  a steady stream of early explorers led many expeditions up the Mississippi to find the 'true source' of the mighty river. In 1832, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft cut his way through a thicket into a small weedy opening and saw what he would later write, "The cheering sight of a transparent body of water burst upon our view. It was Itasca Lake, the source of the Mississippi."

Lake Itasca is small by Minnesota standards with three arms reaching into the majestic northern pines. The West Arm borders the park's wilderness sanctuary.  Bear Paw campground and the Bower Trail line the eastern part of the lake. The Headwaters and most of the parks facilities, swimming beach and boat ramp are located on the northern main part of the lake. On weekends and during the summer, the crowds flock here to see the origin of the Mississippi and to take a dip or rent a canoe.

The Headwaters sign.

Everyone who's ever been there has a memory of crossing over the rocks at the Mississippi's birthplace. A line of hand-laid boulders forms a crude dam at the outlet of the lake. Every kid from Minnesota has had their picture taken here either by the sign or wading in the creek. It's a short hike from the Visitor Center and gift shop to the stream. On hot summer days, folks of all ages will kick off their shoes to wade the cool waters.

Dixon and Noel at the Headwaters.

Having camped and kayaked at Itasca State Park with my family many times, I usually picked a spot near the lake so I could enjoy the early morning and sunset paddles across the water.
Before the sun touches the water, I would carry my kayak from my campsite to the lake. The sound of loons echoing over the lake, a glowing mist hanging like a ghost over the lake, greeted me as I paddled through the reeds to open water.  Lost in the fog, I slid along the lakeshore enjoying the solitude.
Sunsets are just as tranquil on the lake. The water glistens. The sun burns orange and red before falling into the darkness over the forest. Before returning to my campfire for the night, I have often enjoyed a sunset paddle on the lake with the company of only a few fishermen.

A quiet morning along the East Arm of the lake.

Trumpeter swans of the lake.

One of the highlights of paddling the lake is seeing various wildlife. The trumpeter swans seem always aware and just out of distance, while the loons pop up from under the water looking surprised that someone is there. It's welcoming to see many bald eagles, ducks and geese around the lake, as well as deer, beaver, otters and turtles. The long and narrow eastern arm of the lake provides great opportunities for wildlife viewing.

Last day of summer, the first day of fall.

Itasca Lake was my source for serenity. I have great memories of both kayaking and camping along its shore.  In 2012, it was the place I went for my 100th paddling day of the season. Such an accomplishment needed a special place to share that milestone. Now living in California, I think of those days fondly hoping someday to journey back to the beginning.

The Jumping Rock

Working up the courage to jump.

Launch yourself on every wave, find your eternity in each moment...there is no other life but this. Henry David Thoreau
 The hardest thing is just finding the courage to jump. After all, I climbed all the way up through rough rocks and poison oak. Jumping off is the easiest way down.

 That's what crossed my mind as I stood on top of the "jumping rock" on Lake Clementine. I joined Bayside Adventure Sports to take part in the Tuesday Evening Activities. The group gets together, weekly for kayaking, stand up paddle boarding and tonight, cliff jumping.
 From the top of the rock, I looked out over an emerald vision. The lake water, freshly melted snow from the Sierra, is now warm enough for a swim. Our paddle boards and kayaks hover motionlessly like toy pieces on glass. At the cliff's edge. it seems like I'm looking down into forever. It's deep enough. At least Erik, our leader has assured us of that. He has been jumping off this rock since he was a kid. It is a long way down. I'm sure the longer I stand there, the more I will talk myself out of jumping. One thought races across my brain. How much is this going to hurt?

 The first to leap is Evan. He has taken a flying start from much higher up. He hangs in the air waving his arms and legs like a puppet on a string until he collides with water in a huge splash. His head pops to the surface quickly with exultation. Up next is Erik, a quick nod to the camera, and then he is over the edge. Falling...Falling... Falling,  I see the splash, but can't hear it. I'm the only one left on top.
 I inch down to find my position on the rock. Gosh, it's a long way down. I look for some firm footing for my leap. The rock isn't smooth or even. There will be no running start.
  Am I sure, I really want to do this? It is now or never. I take moment to study the water.  To late to back out.  One...Two...Take a giant breath....Three...
 The fall is fast and short. It's exhilarating feeling flying through the air. The lake gets closer and closer. I point my toes and hold to the camera as gravity pulls me into the pool. I'm engulfed in the cool green water. I swim to the surface and pop my head up in relief. It wasn't so bad. If we had some more time I think I would jump again, as crazy as that sounds.

Adventures at Rattlesnake Bar & Folsom Lake

The river called. The call is the thundering rumble of distant rapids, the intimate roar of white water . . . a primeval summons to primordial values. — (John Craighead, Naturalist Magazine (Autumn 1965)
  Where the North Fork of the American River flows into Folsom Lake is one of my favorite spots to paddle. At the far northern end of Folsom Lake State Recreational Area, Rattlesnake Bar is a little out of the way.  It is off the highway and down a winding road to the lake access. Because of the current drought, getting on the water is inconvenient.  Last time I was there, the boat ramp gate was locked, leading to a long portage to the water.
 Nevertheless, once on the water those troubles drifted away. The water was calm, flat and suited for touring. It's spellbinding to explore the towering rock formations and coves of the lakeshore.  At  Mormon Ravine, if conditions are right, the water is boiling. Discharges from the nearby pump house have turned the mild stream into a rocky watercourse just right for surfing.
  The guys from Bayside Adventure Sports and I were lucky one evening to catch a flow release into the ravine. We tested our skills enjoying that thrill of whitewater before heading back home on the peaceful lake.

Action Cam

Over Folsom Lake in the golden hour

 Your adventure is not an adventure anymore unless you chronicle it with photos or video. Today's cameras and social media give us instant results to seeing and sharing our favorite spots and shots. Here are some tips to make sure your biking, hiking, paddling, and day-at-the-beach pictures shine on the social media pages.

Golden Hour
 Time of day makes a difference in capturing photos. The first or last hours of sunlight can produce quality results for picture taking. Photographers refer to it as the "Golden Hour". Those early morning sunrises or evening sunsets provide wonderful light to create a mood for dazzle. What do photographers call the mid-day light of harsh shadows? Lunchtime.

Available Light 
 Good lighting always makes good pictures. Front-lit, with the sun behind the photographer, usually tends to make blue skies and scenic colors, but also can lead to harsh light on faces. Shooting into the sun will cause the subject to be in the shadows against a bright background. A remedy, use your flash to fill in the shadows.

Paddling and pictures with the sun to your back.

Framing 
 Back in my newspaper photography days,  people would look at my camera gear and say, "That camera must take some good pictures."
 The camera was a good one but the real trick is composing the photo and seeing the picture before you press the button. I look for simple images and clutter-free backgrounds. Ansel Adams said it simple, "A good photograph is knowing where to stand."


Stay tight
 Fill the frame with the action. War photographer Bob Capa said, "If your pictures aren't good enough, then your not close enough." A good action photo will draw us into the intensity of the sport. The closer you are to the action, the closer the viewer will be too. Hopefully, you are only one shooting.

Right on top of the action on the Wolf River.

Panoramic Vistas
 You wouldn't think about going to Lake Superior, Yosemite or the Grand Canyon without bringing back a photo. Stay away from the traditional and create your own unique perspective.
"One reason that I love photography," wrote Minnesota photographer Bryan Hansel, " Is that it combines many different engaging elements, including some of my favorite aspects of life: curiosity, creativity, math, science, and imagination."
 Something to think about while searching out your big picture.

Paddling across Lake Superior. this time the place is the star.

Waterproof & Floaty
 If you are into water sports you might look into a waterproof camera. There are many out there on the market with technology and durability in mind.  Attach a float strap to keep your camera from sinking if it gets away from you. I watched helplessly one summer day as my camera slipped out my hand, bounced on the bow of the kayak and into the Red River.  It is a small investment to keep your camera from plunging to the bottom of the lake or river.

Making a video on the Otter Tail River.

GoPro Video Tips
 You have all seen those static shots on Y-Tube. The camera is locked down with one long segment,   making thrilling video dull when it runs too long. When I'm working on my kayak videos I place the camera all around my boat to get different angles. For other shots, I  position the camera on a rock to get video of my kayak paddling through the frame. GoPro has plenty of cool attachments to mount the camera anywhere.

Kayaking Fargo, Red River Reminiscence

Urban paddle through downtown Fargo and Moorhead

 The city of Fargo has been all the news this past year. It has a new hit TV series that shares it's name. ESPN College Game Day came to town for a visit last fall,  and it received rave reviews from the national media about it's urban trendy downtown nightclubs, restaurants and bars. It seems, Fargo is cool. After living and raising a family there for quite awhile it nice to see it get some positive attention. But, for me, the best part is it's river.

 Slicing through the communities of Fargo and it's next door neighbor, Moorhead, Minn,  is the Red  River of the North. This slow motion friend doesn't seem to be in a hurry at all.  It meanders 550 miles from it's source in Breckenridge, Minn all the way to Lake Winnipeg in Canada. In one of the world's flattest places,  the river can pick and chose it's own way.  There are not many straight lines in this waterway. In some places along the river, Minnesota is on west bank, while North Dakota is to the east. Moving very slowly and sloping at just a half-foot per mile, any beginner can navigate this river easily.

Sunset on the Red River.

 Kayaking or canoeing has never been so easy. Along with the cities' parks departments, the Riverkeepers, a non profit organization established to protect and preserve the integrity and natural environment of the river in the Fargo-Moorhead area, have developed several access points along the river. Two favorites are located above and below the Midtown Dam in Dike East Park. The dam has been retrofitted with a rocky slope. Fishermen hang out here daily during the summer months.
 From here one can paddle either north through the center of the cites to get views of the skylines and  bridges, or go south towards Lindenwood park to escape the bustle.
  It is hard to believe this is an urban paddle as one winds and weaves around with the stream. Willow, cottonwood and box elder trees cradle the river at each bend. In either direction don't be surprised to see beaver, river otters and white tailed deer. It feels like a trip into the wilderness.
 Of course in other places, one can tell they are in a city.  The sounds of traffic and train horn echo off the water. The music of a jazz guitar floats down from a riverside venue or the Oak Grove High School Band plays it's fight song at it's football field near to the river. It is always good to remember pizza or a glass of wine are minutes away after the kayaks are loaded up. 

Kayaking only stops when the Red River is frozen.

 One of the more popular events on the river is the annual Race the Red kayak and canoe race sponsored by the Riverkeepers.  Each year area paddlers come to challenge skills, raise money for Riverkeepers and have fun. The race features a 10 mile competitive race and a 2 mile fun paddle. The race begins at the Lindenwood Park bike bridge and ends down stream at the floating bridge above the Midtown Dam. This year's race is slated for June 9, 2014. For more information log on to Riverkeepers.org

Lining up for the race.

Debbie and Nick after placing in last year's race.

 I'm now part of the Red River's history. I'm sure no one in recent times had paddle up and down it so much. It's muddy looking waters, ever changing direction and rumble of it's dams still call and always will. I have seen picturesque sunrises and sunsets,  cool morning mists and tranquil snow falls at each bend. I have enjoyed time with family and friends floating on the river as well as solo trips of solitude. The river was a wonderful friend in my journey of life.

Paddling the Red River.

Snowshoeing the Sierra

Snowshoeing in the Sierra 

 Snowshoeing is increasing in popularity in snowy areas mainly because it is so easy to learn and lots of fun. We picked a trail just off I-80 near Donner Pass in the Tahoe National Forest.  It was a beautiful spring day in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Without a cloud in the sky, the temperatures were balmy. It was t-shirt weather. 
 We left from the Sno Park with our high-tech snowshoes crunching through the snow. After crossing  over a stream, we made our own trail through the trees. The noise of the freeway slowly faded away  with each step. The snow was deep;  the terrain was rugged. Without snowshoes, the hike would have been impossible. At the top we enjoyed the pay off of our trek... a view of Castle Peak,  a 9,104 foot sentinel of the Sierra. 

Tips and Tricks for Snowshoers Climbing
To ascend a slope kick the front of your snowshoe into the snow and press down to compact it into a step. Make sure that each new step is sufficiently above the last one to avoid collapse.

Descending
Heel cleats are the key to an easy descent. Keep your knees slightly bent, lean back and  keep your weight on the heel cleats to maintain control.

Edging
The best way to traverse a slope is to kick the side of the snowshoe into the hillside, engaging the cleats. Swing your heel hard towards the uphill slope, then stomp down, securing the snowshoe edge in the slope. Poles are also helpful.

Breaking Trail
When snowshoeing in a group, walk in a single line behind the leader who is breaking the trail. When it is your turn to lead, take consistent, even steps that are easy for everyone to follow.


Safety Tips for Snowshoers

Check with the local weather service before you head out. Conditions can sometimes change abruptly.

Make sure someone knows where you will be snowshoeing and your expected time of return, even if you are not going alone.

When snowshoeing with a group, make sure everyone is comfortable with the pace and demands of the trail. Count the number of people in your group before you leave and make sure everyone in the group knows this number. Stop every 30 minutes to allow everyone in the group to catch up.

Know your limits and don't surpass them! 

Copyright © 1998 Atlas Snow-Shoe Company. All Rights Reserved.     

Nick & Debbie across from Castle Peak.

Kayaking with the Stars

Camera ready kayak.

 My kayaks have become stars for television. They were used by Windsong Productions in a commercial being filmed on Lake Natoma.  The production crew was working on an upcoming TV spot promoting air quality for the Sacramento Metropolitan Air Quality Management District.
 Before going out on the water, crew members outfitted one kayak's bow with a camera. Actors then paddled across the lake in tandem of each other to create the shot.  An aerial drone with camera also hovered them to provide extra footage.
 In my tandem kayak, I paddled around the photographer so he could position the kayaks in the shot he wanted. It was all filmed during sunset to furnish the best light.
 So look for my kayaks paddling through your TV screen some time soon.