ON THE EVE OF 60

                   Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. ---Helen Keller

Back in the 1970s, John Denver recorded his hit record celebrating the Colorado Rockies Mountain called Rocky Mountain High. It was seemly an autobiographical song about one finding one's self in their own special place, they're own Eden that they have been called too and now call home. The opening verse I really like goes like this.

He was born in the summer of his 27th year
Coming home to a place he'd never been before
He left yesterday behind him, you might say he was born again
You might say he found a key for every door...

The genesis inquiry. It's a question I'm most often asked. When did you start paddling? Or it's sometimes asked this way. What made you start paddling?
My answer is usually trite. Something like it's been a while now or I don't know I just started and fell in love with the sport, you know, like Forest Gump, "I think I'll paddle now."

Kayaking can truly be a life-changing experience. It's that feeling of being on the water conjoined with the sensation of freedom and adventure. And for many, that feeling can become in ways highly addictive.
"When one is completely immersed in the elements, experience is heightened as increased awareness is demanded and dulled senses are rejuvenated," wrote the founder of Werner Paddles, Werner Furrer Sr.

Current Adventures Kayaking School & Trips' Dan Crandall who leads annual trips down the Grand Canyon has told me of folks who just up and quit their jobs or their relationships and totally changed their lives after just one trip down the canyon because they were so intoxicated by the river and paddling.

Mine is a different story, but still much the same. Paddling, like for many, had made a few entrances into my life early on. As a teen, I paddled as much as I could while growing up in Nebraska in the 1970s. I took some great canoe trips down the Niobrara River and Missouri River with science trips offered by my public schools. It usually featured long school bus trips, Grumman canoes, along with red licorice and beef jerky.
At 14, it was pretty exciting to finally get on the water for an overnight canoe trip. We would arrive just before dark to a campsite hopped up on sodas, candy bars and the buzz of anticipation and try to get to sleep.
The next day, the excitement would build as outfitters arrived with trailers of canoes, PFDs, and paddles. We tried not to laugh when the first few inexperienced paddlers capsize, knowing it could just as well happen to us. When finally on the river, water fights and canoe dumping, along with developing paddling skills and new friendships entailed over the journey downriver.
I'm still kicking myself for not signing up for the 10-day summer trip to the BWCA and highlighted with a visit to the Rootbeer Lady cabin. If I had only known what I was missing.

For most, outside a few lucky ones who would make it their business AKA, Dan Crandall would be engulfed in life's eddy of education, career, and family. I was lucky to paddle only a few times a year or not at all. I'm sure there were a couple of years where I didn't even come close to a canoe or kayak. But, when I joined my kids at Minnesota summer camps, where swimming and canoeing are part of the daily programs, it reinvigorated my love of the water.

After the long illness and death of my wife paddling took over. I was alone, yet not alone. After the death of his daughter, writer Roger Rosenblatt sought the same therapy.
"I have taken to kayaking," he wrote in Kayak Morning, Reflections on Love, Grief and Small Boats, "They say people in grief become more like themselves. I have always been a loner, so going out in a kayak suits my temperament."
For the few years after her death, I to did seek the solace of nature and the healing powers of the water.
As Rosenblatt concluded in his meditation, "In this boat, on this creek, I am moving forward, even as I am moving in circles. Amy returns in my love, alive and beautiful. I have her still."

In his philosophical novel, Illusions: The Adventures of a Reluctant Messiah, writer, and pilot Richard Bach wrote, "The river delights to lift us free, if only we dare to let go. Our true work is this voyage, this adventure."

In 2013, with a new bride and five kayaks loaded on to a Chevy van, I came to California. It was a homecoming of sorts, to the places I had always dreamed about being. I wanted to see natural places with tranquil clear cobalt lakes and rushing wild whitewater and mountain vistas. I wanted places to unplug from the day to day tension of reality to reach out for the universe.

From my window, I now look east to the Sierra. Just down the road from Lake Natoma and the Lower American River. While up the road is South Fork the whitewater and crystal blue lakes of the Sierra. It astounds me how significant these destinations have become to me. For ones I have visited and paddled often, I know every rock, tree, and feature of the setting that they have become a part of me. 
It's the same with the friends and even the strangers that I've joined with on the water. I've found that everyone is pretty much your friend when they have a paddle in their hand. I guess that why I counting down the days till I'm out with staff and crew of Current Adventures Kayaking School & Trips and in charge of the weekend paddle rentals on Lake Jenkinson at Sly Park Recreation Area this spring and summer.

On the eve of my 60th birthday, I still have the urge to find a home in even more locales both near and far. Even if I don't go far. I still have a quest to load my boat on top of the truck and journey down the road like Jack London's character Canim the Canoe, wanderer and far-journeyer over the earth.
"You know nothing of the sea," he boasts to wife in London's The Children of the Frost, "So let me tell you. As the lake is to the island; so the sea is to land; all the rivers run to it, and it is without end."

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SAFETY AND PREPARATION FOR WINTER TO SPRING KAYAKING

Courtesy of The River Store

While watching it rain and snow this winter we can all perceive it's going to be a fantastic spring season for paddling your area rivers and lakes.  Surely the excitement is there. For most of us who have had our boats locked away this past winter, there would be nothing better than grabbing our gear and heading back out on to the water as if nothing had changed since last season.

But with safety being the top concern Dan Crandall owner of Current Adventures Kayaking School and Trips wrote on the CA website, "Don't just “Fling” into spring paddling! Think about the important stuff before going? Remember, days are still short, water is cold and the weather is unpredictable! There are also way fewer paddlers and rafters out in the winter to be of help if needed and many new potential hazards to be found."

It's great advice for us all. As Crandal states, "A lot of paddling safely is based in common sense."
Here is a list of Crandall's reminders that you need to take care of before venturing safely out to the water this season.

South Fork of the American River 2017

Two weeks or more before your first outing

• Check all gaskets and put the dry tops/suits on to make sure they aren’t cracked and ready to rip out. Gaskets tend to last two or three seasons at best and fail when you can least afford it. A failed gasket at the put in or on the run has ruined many a paddling trip! If they are questionable, get em replaced. FYI, The River Store (info@theriverstore.com) offers quick turn around service whenever possible on gasket repairs.
• Check out your boat for cracks, frogs, or spiders before they surprise you. Tighten all of the bolts, replace missing or worn pieces of your outfitting and make sure your float bags hold air!
• Stretch your skirt onto the boat and repair any rips or badly frayed areas (check it thoroughly on the inside of the skirt as well!)
• Get your cold water gear together, with , booties, neo socks, pogies or insulating gloves, skull cap, Capilene and fleece underlayers and spare fleece in your boat
• Good 1st Aid kit along with firestarter, hand warmers, energy bars, duct tape, space blanket, flashlight and a few thin plastic grocery bags as emergency “socks”, “mittens” or skull caps.
• Use a “new” Drysuit in a pool or easy water and try swimming in it BEFORE you take an unwanted test on a river. Air and the restrictiveness of a drysuit can really affect your swimming ability if you are not familiar with how to “bleed” the air and with what it feels like to swim in a drysuit.  

Courtesy of Current Adventures Kayaking School & Trips

First Tracks

• Paddle familiar runs first, and a step below what you were paddling at the end of last season.
• DON’T fall into the common trap of getting a late start- especially on unknown or higher than normal runs. ALWAYS plan in a margin for error. It only takes one unexpected portage or a swim or two by members of the group (or other groups you run into) to throw your timing way off and create a series of new issues and potential risks or epics.
• Paddle a familiar and comfortable boat the first time or two out. Not the time to jump right into a new boat or a new demo boat! A river running boat with more volume and hull speed will help offset any sluggish timing or lack of practice and conditioning on your part, especially on new, high or faster water runs.
• Paddle runoff (vs. Dam release) rivers on their way DOWN! Rivers on their way up can be VERY unpredictable in terms of how high the water is or will get, and for the debris and in some cases chemicals or bacteria and sewage they pick up on their way UP! Running rivers on their way up have likely been a prominent factor in more unwanted ramifications or dangerous scenarios for kayakers than any other single element.
• A breakdown paddle should always be in everyone’s boat, for your use or more likely to save someone else (and their group) a much longer day or a walk out.
• Check LOCAL weather for the area you‘ll be paddling before you go, since Spring weather can be much different due to microclimates or be spotty and cause things like flooding or snow in one area and nothing an hour away. Bad access roads can sometimes get you on the way OUT even if you were able to get in, so a shovel, chains, plenty of gas are all worth having. Low snow melting into the rivers on a sunny day or dams reaching their spilling point and adding a large surge to the existing flow can be very misleading and really catch you off guard in terms of the unexpected rise of rivers. (Slab Creek Reservoir on The South Fork American is a classic for this and can add thousands of CFS to the flow almost instantly once it spills) .Do your homework and know the dams and diurnal flow timing for the run you’ll be on!
• Realize that the gauges you are reading on flow sites are not always at the put in where you plan to go, and can over or under-represent the flow you’ll find when you get there (Chamberlains on the North Fork American has a gauge that is miles downstream of the put in for instance). Look at trends on gauges ( rising or falling, etc.).
• Paddle with people you know and whose skills you are comfortable with on a given run or under expected conditions. Qualify new paddlers to you or your group THOROUGHLY before getting on the river with them. Don’t be afraid to decide not to run if you are not comfortable with the group, or tell someone else you do not think they should be there. Any one person can put all others in a group at risk if they are not prepared. Ask the same questions of others you would ask of yourself: Are they dressed well enough, paddling a familiar boat, been paddling at that level already this year, SOLID roll, etc.?? Have their own throw rope and SWR training so they can rescue YOU if necessary?
• Consider some Winter or early Spring cross training by getting out surf kayaking or even out on the lake just to work the muscles and conditioning a little. Better yet, get an early lesson with a qualified instructor to help start your year off right and take away a bit of the anxiety associated with first runs out on the year or after a lay-off.
• Got questions?? Anxiety?? Call up the local shop or instructor who knows you or the local runs and get some more input/advice before you make your decisions. 

"Think of Spring paddling as a new performance," Crandall wrote in conclusion, "You are in with a cast of characters, and that you all need to get your costumes and props ready, and then do a dress rehearsal before you really get to the main show. One person can destroy the whole show if they did not get things ready on their end."

The Atmospheric River Flows Again

Nimbus Dam

Heavy rains from a weather system known as an "atmospheric river" the latest in a series of storms to pound Northern California earlier this week. It caused flooding that inundated a town north of San Francisco, along the Russian River and forced thousands to flee.
As the heavy rains moved in dam operators also have opened their gates to make room for the expected run-off in the days and weeks ahead. Releases at Folsom Dam accompanied by releases at Nimbus Dam downstream have impacted low-lying areas along the American River Parkway with flooding.
Our best advice we can give when it comes to paddling in flood waters is: DON'T! Remember flood waters are just very unpredictable and littered with debris.

Forest Service To Relaunch BWCA Permit System March 4

Just like an overloaded canoe, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area reservation system was swamped with technical glitches causing it to crash when it first went live back on in January. Only a few people were able to reserve permits before the system failed.
Area outfitters warned U.S. Forest Service officials that the crush on the new first-come, first-served reservation system that replaced the lottery system for BWCA permits could overwhelm to its capacity. Permits for an area where motors are allowed are especially coveted.
Officials say the technical issues with the software have been addressed and additional testing has been completed. Permit registration will begin March 4th and may be reserved through September 30th. To make a reservation the new website is recreation.gov.

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IT'S NO PICNIC

When I paddle I usually pick up trash along the way. Over the years I have taken part in river cleanups and made a pledge with American Rivers to pick up 3 pieces of trash every time I paddle. I'm in the habit now, of steering toward a floating plastic bottle or fishing a beer can or plastic bag out of a tree. As a steward of the lake or river, I feel it's my obligation to pick up and pack out litter along the waterways I travel.

According to Mother Nature Network, The earth's oceans have a big plastic problem. They receive roughly 8 million metric tons of plastic waste every year, washing there from its shore and carried thereby inland littered rivers.
Those plastic bottles and bottle caps we all use aren’t biodegradable, but they do photodegrade. That means that the plastic breaks down into small parts in the sun, and releases chemicals into the environment. The worst part, of course, is like the plastic crumbles into smaller pieces called microplastics, it often will fatally trick marine wildlife into eating it.

While plastic bottles are one of the biggest culprits. American Rivers listed the four most common trash items found at river cleanups other plastic bottles.

Cigarette Butts  Can you believe they weigh one gram or less, but they account for 30% of all litter in the United States.

Food Packaging  Tossed Food containers is the largest category of waste usually picked up during cleanup drives. It includes household packaging (i.e. milk jugs, juice boxes, and snack packaging) as well as fast food packaging (i.e. paper, Styrofoam, paperboard wrappings, coffee cups, and drink cups). Almost half of the litter in the United States is food packaging. Think about that on your next picnic and while some of these items could be recycled, most are not, and often these are found weighing down shorelines and waterways.

Plastic Bags  Plastic bags are so common in the United States that over 100 billion bags are used each year. Over three times more bags end up as litter in our forests and waterways than are recycled annually. Plastic bags take almost as long to degrade as plastic bottles, leach chemicals into the environment, and inhibit natural water flows. The good news, however, is after California banned most stores from handing out flimsy, single-use plastic bags, according to the LA Times, data has shown plastic bags (both the banned and the legal variety) accounted for 3.1% of the litter collected from the state's beaches during the 2017 Coastal Cleanup Day, down from to 7.4% in 2010.


Aluminum Cans  Almost 100 billion aluminum cans are used in the U.S. annually, and only about half of these cans are recycled. The rest goes to landfills or into the environment. Beverage containers account for 50% of roadside litter (though this statistic includes plastic containers), and much of that is washed into our waterways.

Of course, nowhere on this list did you find a picnic table, but my wife and I found one in floating in the middle of Lake Natoma last month. We could only assume it pushed or pulled into the lake by someone who doesn't love the rivers and lakes as much as we do. I find it disturbing that someone could have such destructive malice towards a body of water I love so dearly.
My wife and I did our best to push the floating picnic table to shore. I used the bow of my kayak to navigate to a spot on the shore where we could lift it out of the water. It was slow going. The table continued to fall away from my bow as I angled it toward shore. But each time I caught the table again and inched along closer to shore.
When we got to the shore, a fisherman on the bank helped pull that table as much as we could up on to dry ground. It was wet and heavy, but we got it mostly out of the water.

It was no picnic getting that table out of the water but it does remind us that pieces of trash and things like picnic tables seem to end up in our local streams, lakes, and rivers. So I encourage everyone making cleaning up the waterway part of your paddling routine. Take American Rivers' Clean Up River Pledge to pick up 25 pieces of trash over the next 25 days. Clean up our rivers and help build a virtual landfill! After you take the pledge, take a photo of your trash, and post on Twitter, Instagram or Vine using the hashtag #rivercleanup. Whether you’re out on the water or in your neighborhood picking up litter, show them how well you clean up.


MISSION COMPLETE 
Paddler Joseph Mullin ended his 5,000-mile solo kayaking journey to create awareness for Mission 22, a national organization aimed at suicide prevention among veterans and active military members on September 30, in Key West, Florida. Called the, One Man, One Mission, To Save Thousands Expedition, Mullin started his trek on April 30, 2017, at Quoddy Head Lighthouse in Maine. For more read our Q/A with Mullin.

Courtesy of Joseph Mullin

LAKE SUPERIOR SPITS BACK MAN'S LONG-LOST CANOE
The lake, it is said, never gives up her dead when skies turn gloomy, but it did exactly that when it mysteriously returned Paul Kellner's canoe that had been missing for over a year after a storm raged over Duluth, Minnesota, and Lake Superior earlier this month.
“It’s the weirdest thing,” Kellner told the Forum News Service, “Do I think the lake spit it back out? “No. I like to think it’s aliens, because why not have fun with it?”

Courtesy of MPR News

Kellner's blue 16-foot pale durable Old Town canoe vanished from his lakeside home over a year ago. Thinking it had been stolen, Kellner didn't expect to see it again. So it came as a big surprise when one of his teenage sons came rushing into the house amid the storm to proclaimed, “Dad, the canoe’s back!”"It's just an odd, odd story," Kellner said, “I’ve always thought there was something magic about Duluth, "
Especially when the gales of November come early.

BWCA TURNS 40
Forty years ago this month, on October 21, 1978, President Jimmy Carter signed into law the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness Act. The act amended the national Wilderness Act of 1964 to provide management to protect, preserve, and enhance the lakes, waterways and forested areas of Minnesota's BWCA while guaranteeing the elimination all logging, snowmobiling, and mining.
While an estimated 150,000 people visit the BWCA each year, the wilderness area is still under threat from the risks of proposed copper-nickel mining within its watershed.

ROUGH ROAD TO SERENITY

 

                                     Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations

Up until then, everything had been OK. But, then the road suddenly stopped! Being a road, that is. Huge ruts and massive rocks block our way. We sat at the point of turning around, going back and finding another way. Meadow Lake Road on the east end of Bowman Lake looked more like a mountain goat trail than a lane of travel.

In all my trips to the water, it's always been fairly simple. For trips to Lake Natoma or the Lower American River, stops signs, traffic, and parking spots are my biggest concerns. With a little luck,  I'll squeeze into a spot at the boat ramp instead of having to park further away after dropping the kayak off at the water edge. For bigger trips, I'll leave the driveway, wade through traffic to the interstate, speed along to the exit, and end up getting stuck behind a slow-moving tractor or truck on the blacktop. At the crossing, I'll turn off the blacktop and drive on gravel down to the boat ramp.

"It’s the portage that makes traveling by canoe unique." said famed paddling guru Bill Mason. He, of course, was referring to hauling canoes through the northern woods from lake to lake. That's how it's done in places like the BWCA. Canoes are inserted on to lakes and streams and then carried by hand to other lakes and streams in between. Meanwhile, whitewater extremists will hike and climb miles transporting their kayaks up mountains to attempt the first descent of a waterfall or canyon creek. The paddling is the easy part, getting to the water is always the ordeal.

Our friend Curt Hough told me, it was a place we just had to paddle. High in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Lake Foucherie is an outdoor paradise. Clear water, mountain views, and towering pines encompass the lake. It's a hidden and remote treasure that offers more that than just tranquil splendor, but serenity as well. It's so beautiful that photographer Ansel Adams just might have switched to color film to photograph its grandeur.
We gathered in my pickup with tandem kayak on top and looked forward to what naturalist John Muir described as an inexpressible delight of wading out into the grassy sun-lake when he wrote, "Feeling yourself contained in one of Nature's most sacred chambers, withdrawn from the sterner influences of the mountains, secure from all intrusion, secure from yourself, free in the universal beauty."

The Bowman Lake Road off of Highway 20 on the northern end of California's Nevada County is bumpy but well-traveled by four-wheel-drive pickup and Jeeps. It weaves and winds, mostly on gravel in a northerly fashion past Fuller Lake and then on up to the dam site.
The Meadow Lake Road begins just below Bowman Reservoir's Dam, turning off and winding up the mountain. The road is rocky and a bit unnerving with a steep drop off at ones the side. It would be a wonderful breath-taking view of the mountains and valley if I hadn't been holding my breath at the sight of the depth chasm.
About halfway up we came to our roadblock. There was just no way my truck could clear those ruts and rocks. We regrouped, turned around and went back down to find a different road up the mountain via GPS.

The first road must have been the express lane for four-wheel drivers and mountain goats. The other road adorned with switchbacks, but they still meet together for the same view Bowman Lake. At an elevation of 5,585 feet, the lake gleams through our windshield. Its fortress-like granite rock formations line the lake buffering it between the water and sky. The north side road runs parallel along the steep lakeshore. It was slow going, but, our destination seems to be in grasp.

All the way to the end of the lake and past Jackson Creek the road went from good to bad, to worse. My wife Debbie had taken the wheel now and she compared the road to a dried-up river bed.
The washboard grooves and stones tested the truck's tires and shock absorbers while driving up what looked like an evaporated stream.
I even got out of the truck and walked ahead in spots and clearing rocks and guiding Debbie to even ground.
At the Jackson Creek Campground, the road splits and leads to Sawmill Lake and Lake Foucherie. That road wasn't any better. It was a rugged adventurous drive over a parched creek bed and along a narrow pine-lined path.
When we limped into the Sawmill Lake Campground and saw the sight of Sawmill Lake, we agreed that we would just have to save Lake Foucherie for another day and unloaded our kayaks.

After the rigorous day of travel, the payoff came softly.
Sawmill Lake cooled us off in an instant. The water gave us relief, the pines refreshed us and the majestic mountain views mesmerized us with their beauty. It wasn't our original destination, but the wilderness always seems to sing to me. You made it!  It was the journey that mattered and the adventure in just getting there. Now enjoy my serenity.

Naturalist Sigurd Olson thought of it that way. He said, "And that, I believe, is one of the reasons why coming home from any sort of a primitive expedition is a real adventure. Security and routine are always welcome after knowing the excitement and the unusual. We need contrast to make us know we are really alive."

This article was originally published in Outside Adventure to the Max September 4. 2015