OVER THE BOW: LAKE CLEMENTINE

The shows of the day, the dewy morning, the rainbow, mountains, orchards in blossom, stars, moonlight, shadows in still water, and the like, if too eagerly hunted, become shows merely, and mock us with their unreality. --Ralph Waldo Emerson

I have paddled Lake Clementine many times before. The Northern California's narrow Sierra foothills reservoir is a jewel to the area's paddling community.  The lake with its four-mile-long tapered waterway in the Auburn State Recreation Area has been enchanting boaters and hikers for decades. Fed by the North Fork American River, the reservoir was formed in 1939 when the Army Corps of Engineers built the dam to prevent gold mining debris from flowing downstream.

"Thus, the reservoir's water level remains the same year round," stated in an excerpt from The American River Insider's Guide to Recreation, Ecology and Cultural History of the North Middle and South Forks, "Wildlife tucks itself into the quiet forested water along the shore; riparian plant growth is thick an lush. There are precious few reservoirs in all California that have and hold their beauty like Clementine, whose stillness contrasts elegantly with the surging wild waters upstream."

Paddling here is relatively easy on these still and transparent waters. There is almost no current except at the upper part of the lake. Even then on most of the times I've have visited, the current has been just a gentle tug where the clear and cool North Fork begins to intertwine with the lake body.

On the lower part, Robber's Roost towering 1,457-foot piece of limestone outcropping dominates the view. Under this giant rock, the lake pools in a calmness before rushing over the spillway of the dam. It's winter, and gone are the speedboats and skiers, who usually come here to play.
When paddling here, it's best to come early or stay late to dodge those blustery winds that tend to kick up usually in the early afternoon. They have a way of tiring out paddlers on the return trip to the boat ramp. But this past weekend, the sky was clear and breathless. The waters of a lake were absolutely still. There was not so much as ripple as the lake reflected the trees, hills, the sky, and everything around it perfectly.

My Bayside Adventure Sports paddling partner John Taylor welcomed the quiet placidity of the lake. In a message on Facebook, he wrote, "Usually, this lake is very windy in the afternoons, but we got lucky what with a very calm day without much of a breeze. Once the sun was clouded over the temperature dropped over 15 degrees at the end. Great day paddling, 10+ miles paddled, and my arms feel it too!!!"

Over the Bow is a feature from Outside Adventure to the Max, telling the story behind the image. If you have a great picture with a great story, we would love to see it. Submit it to us at nickayak@gmail.com

Duncan Mine: Class V Kayaking With Carson Lindsay

Outside Adventure to the Max friend Scott Blankenfeld is excited about his new projects showcasing athletes doing their thing on their home turf. Along with Robby Hogg, he created Duncan Mine, a Northern California Production Company, last year and began producing videos

In the first of their series, they profiled area world-class kayaker Carson Lindsay on the South Fork of the Yuba River near Donner Summit in California's Sierra Nevada.

"It's was pretty impressive watching him paddle these rapids at ease, considering he was basically paddling solo the entire time," wrote Blankenfeld in an email, "Growing up in Truckee, CA, this run is where he honed his whitewater kayaking skills and first started running Class V whitewater."

Courtesy of Scott Blankenfled

Blankenfled who spends his summers on the water following the action on the North, Middle and South Forks of the American River photographing whitewater rafting is looking forward to featuring more of these extreme athletes.

"We are looking to take this series across several different sports including Skiing/Snowboarding, Mountain Biking, Running, Surfing, etc," wrote Blankenfeld, "Each segment will highlight a new personality, sport, and location."
You can learn about Ducan Mine at www.duncanmine.com.  To follow Blankenfled and to check out more of his images go to www.scottblankenfeld.com. 

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ADVENTURE ON THE HORIZON: 2019

Rather than saying, good luck and good fortune to you this New Year, let me say work hard, laugh often, continue to learn, be kind, help others, pray for wisdom and then good fortune will see you this coming year. --  Robert Rivers

So what’s on your adventure horizon for 2019? As we stride into the new year, here are 5 trends we will see more of in the next year and beyond. Onward.
 
MORE BOATS IN MORE STORES

We don't have to tell you that over the past decade, that there has been an increased awareness in healthy lifestyles accompanied by a growing number of water sports enthusiasts across the US. According to the Outdoor Foundation's 2015 Special Report on Paddlesports, participation is on the rise, with almost 22 million Americans hitting the waterways in 2014—three million more than in 2010, the first year the study was completed.
"Paddlesports are gaining a lot of steam due in part to three factors: accessibility, affordability, and approachability," Joshua Silva, the Brand Marketing Manager at Jimmy Styks SUP Boards, told the website Very Well Fit.
Expect to see more inexpensive recreational kayaks and SUPs not just at the crowded boat launch but also in the big box stores like Costco and Sams Club along with other stores like Target, Walmart and TJ Maxx as the trend becomes more and more popular.

MORE PLACES TO ACCESS THE WATER

As the paddling community continues to grow to expect to see local municipality constructing long sought access areas to river and lakes. Paddling groups and community partners across the country are working to develop sites that will provide paddlers and boaters an improved put-in and take-out along popular stretches water.
"We've heard from the community that they would certainly like to see the river access improve at that historical boat launch, and I know that the folks that own dogs will appreciate an area," City of Eau Claire Forestry Director Todd Chwala, told WEAU-TV about a proposed project on the Chippewa River.

MORE SOLO TRIPS

“I wanted to follow a drop of water all the way from the Continental Divide (in Colorado) to the Gulf of Mexico,” Hannes Zacharias told the Kansas City Star about his 2,060-mile river trip from the Arkansas River’s headwaters near Leadville, Colo., to the Gulf of Mexico last summer.
It seems that those quiet me time paddling session are on almost every paddler's bucket list. Expect to see more tales of long journeys down river or around the circumference of a big lake alone. Who knows? Maybe they will inspire us to take even a trip of our own.

MORE WOMEN PADDLERS

Ladies were born to paddle. According to the Frontenac Outfitter's website, women represent about 45% of the kayaking enthusiast population and at that rate, their segment is growing, they will soon outnumber men. Kayak and SUP manufacturers, suppliers, and outfitters will continue to take note of this trend and eagerly adapt to meet their demands.
"I started paddling around and fell in love with it," wrote world-class kayaker Anna Levesque on her Mind Body Paddle website, "The challenge of having to balance combined with the body-alignment awareness and the great workout that it provides can’t be beat. Not to mention the fact that it allowed me to take my yoga practice to the water!"

Courtesy of Nick Troutman via Facebook

MORE HIGH TECH GEAR
Never before in paddling has there been so much high tech gadgetry. Pro paddlers now use everything from fitness trackers that can count paddling strokes to cameras to them keep their competitive edge. The kayakers use GoPro cameras while practicing tricks to get insight into their body mechanics after viewing it in slow-motion
“You can really figure out, ‘What am I doing?’” Pro-paddler Nick Troutman, told Digital Trends, “Either ‘What am I doing wrong’ or ‘What am I doing right? Why did this trick go bigger or better than the other trick?’ You can really slow it down and analyze exactly the difference between the moves.”

SHUTDOWN AND THE PARKS

The partial federal government shutdown, which began on Dec. 22 last month, has forced furloughs of hundreds of thousands of federal government employees and leaving many of our US National Parks without most of the rangers and others who staff campgrounds and otherwise keep parks running. Unlike shutdowns in some previous administrations, the Trump administration has left parks open to visitors despite the staff furloughs.

Courtesy of the Boulder Daily Camera News

At the Grand Canyon, the state of Arizona is paying for trash collection, custodial services for bathrooms and snow removal from sidewalks and trails. Stores and restaurants that aren’t run by the government are open. Campgrounds are open, but there is no reservation and check-in and check out process.
Meanwhile in California, at Yosemite National Park, trash collection, along with visitors’ centers and the park’s restrooms have been closed since the shutdown began. Joshua Tree has been operating with some staff, but beginning this past week, it's not allowing camping because of health concerns about near-capacity toilets. Earlier this week, Volunteers have been working to keep the beloved desert jewel as pristine as possible hauling out the trash and keeping toilets stocked with supplies hoping to keep the park accessible.

In Minnesota, officials at Voyageurs National Park issued a statement saying that "park roads ... may remain accessible to visitors, but will not be plowed.
Other affected parks in Minnesota include the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway, Grand Portage and Pipestone national monuments, and the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area.
Services at Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River and Ozark National Scenic Riverways in southeast Missouri have also been disrupted due to the shutdown.
“We’re deeply concerned about the approach the administration has taken,” told the New York Times, "John Garder, the senior budget director at the nonprofit National Parks Conservation Association. “Keeping the parks open is clearly causing threats to health and safety of visitors as well as wildlife and natural and cultural resources. We are worried about parks themselves, about park rangers who are demoralized, and the many businesses that depend on visitors.”

PADDLE DAY #141

Had a great time over the Christmas break paddling with my son Cole Carlson as I paddled to a new personal record of 141 paddling days in the calendar year. Onward to 2019.

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UNEXPECTED CHALLENGES

 

Today we stand at the threshold of the unknown. Before us lies a new year, and we are going forward to take possession of it. Who knows what we will find? --L. B. E. Cowman

 

My friends who have gone down the Grand Canyon say it's truly a life-changing experience. From its breathtaking beauty to its adrenaline-pumping rapids, navigating the canyon is an exhilarating adventure.

“It’s still just reverberating in my brain and coursing through my soul, everything I felt in there,” paddler Steve Baskis told The Colorado Sun, "That place, it changed me. It washed away some things, … and it gave me so much. It tested me, and I came through energized, empowered, revitalized, invigorated., ”Everything you can think of. I want to do it again.”

This past September, Baskis a US Army veteran who was blinded by a roadside bomb in Iraq in 2008, kayaked the Grand Canyon with four other blind veterans with support from Team River Runner.

Think about that. Paddling the Grand Canyon is an amazing achievement in itself, but running it blind is just not just inspiring but extraordinary.

“They kept telling me I took the hero line,” Steve Baskis told The Colorado Sun, “I tell you, I was nervous about this whole thing, but then I got thrown into that washing machine and came out all right. I was like, ‘Wow. Let’s get this thing going!’”

After a breathtaking 12 day and 226 miles journey down the canyon, Bakis and crew emerged transformed.

"It makes you think about life and the different things you can do," Bakis said his interview, "Things really aren’t that impossible. If we can work together, we can figure out a way through anything."

Like the Colorado River, the year 2018, has had its share of both serene flat water and turbulent rapids for me. But, surrounded by my solid foundation of love support and community I have once again been able to ride out those unexpected bumps and challenges and come out all right on the other side.

I'm was so grateful this past year to once again paddle with likes of Dan Crandall, Kim Sprague, John Weed, Paul Camozzi, Thomas Bauman and the rest of the gang at Current Adventures Kayaking School and Trips and The River Store. Any outing with these guys is always a great day on the water.
We gave a sentimental goodbye to Eppies Great Race the area's annual summer celebration, however, added Sly Park Paddle Rentals on Jenkinson Lake to our lineup. In 2019, we're hoping to expand that service even more at its scenic venue. As for kayak racing on the Lower American River, Dan has pledged to somehow keep it going.

One thing leader Greg Weisman and  Bayside Adventure Sports can always guarantee at being a guiding light of faith and hope to those who take part in their many outside activities. With the manta, GOD created the Earth. RIDE IT. CLIMB IT. CATCH IT. EXPLORE IT. PROTECT IT, the church-based outreach put a special emphasis on protesting by taking part in several Earth Day events this past year, including a special one of their own. I only hope for many more adventures with them in the coming year.

A big thank you goes out to our 2018's guest bloggers, John D'Amelio,
Lacey Anderson, Tim Plamer, and Kate Hives,  for their insights and views this past year. They have certainly make OAM better by providing thoughtful and compelling views into the world of paddling. We certainly look forward to future posts from them in 2019.

I would also like to thank, Dirt Bag Paddlers & DBP Magazine Online, Canoe & Kayak Magazine, Paddling Magazine, AquaBound, American Rivers and NRS Web, for sharing my posts on their social media pages. It's always a fun Friday for me when post Outside Adventure to the Max. Thanks for helping spread the word about our weekly post.

My biggest thanks, of course, goes to my wife Debbie. I couldn't do any of my kayaking without her support and encouragement. Here is hoping she will finally get to stand up on her new paddleboard, after a mostly just be able to sit on it due to a foot injury.

As poet T.S. Eliot wrote, "What we call the beginning is often the end, and to make an end is to make a beginning. The end is where we start from."
I'll finish 2018 with a little over 140 days of paddling days spent on the water, a personal best for me. Broken up mostly into mini outings and weekends trips to my areas' lakes and rivers the year proved to be a never-ending journey of both planned and unanticipated trials and tribulations on the water that took my paddling into a new dimension.

“It’s one thing to pursue challenges," Baskis told The Colorado Sun, after his trip down the fabled canyon,&nfabledut it’s the unexpected challenges that really try us and change us and ultimately make us better. And there were a lot of unexpected things going on in the Grand Canyon.”

That's good advice going into the new year. Be ready for anything. The good and the bad. The stretches of rough water and the calm seas. Outside Adventure to the Max will be with you along the way.  Happy New Year.

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OH CHRISTMAS TREE

The best Christmas trees come very close to exceeding nature. If some of our great decorated trees had been grown in a remote forest area with lights that came on every evening as it grew dark, the whole world would come to look at them and marvel at the mystery of their great beauty. ---Andy Rooney

 

It was Christmas time again and I was feeling a little trapped in the endless hustle and bustle of the holiday. I'd been working a lot of extra hours was suffering in the seasonal strain of holidays when I escaped to a little town holding a Christmas festival.

Christmas trees and lights, hay-rack rides, and a booth selling handcrafted old fashion ornaments and kids standing in line to see Santa. Down the way, I saw the Storyteller. Wearing his old leather jacket and trademark Fedora standing in front of a large bond fire roasting chestnut with a long-handled roaster. He had gathered quite an audience of both children and adults watching toast the popular seasonal treat.

"Are they done yet?" asked a child as I walked up to warmed my hands against the fire.

"Not yet," answered the Storyteller as he shooked the roaster, mixing the chestnuts around. He then looked at me and said "Hey, kid. How've you've been? I haven't seen you on the river lately."

"You know," I grunted, "I get pretty busy this time of year. I barely have time to enjoy Christmas."

"There is always time to enjoy Christmas," interjected the Storyteller. He gave his roaster a brisk shake and began this story.

Photo: National Archives

"Now the fellas on the work crew called him Rusty, but his folks always called him Russell," the Storyteller stipulated, "He was one of the two million young unemployed men to seek work with the Civilian Conservation Corps during the dark days of the Depression."

"The CCC,"  he pointed out, "Was a popular the New Deal program created by President Roosevelt to help employ the boys with jobs in conservation work. They worked planting trees, fighting wildfires, and building dams and roads mostly in the Americas' parks and forests. The men lived in camps earning only $30 dollars a month, most of which they sent home to their families. A bit like the army, the CCC provided the men with food, clothing, and medical care, along with job training."

 "It was President's Roosevelt's speech on the radio in 1933, that moved Russell to join up," the Storyteller theorized,  "When the President said, "It is time for each and every one of us to cast away self-destroying, nation-destroying efforts to get something for nothing and to appreciate that satisfying reward and safe reward come only through honest work."

Photo: National Archives

"They were known as "Roosevelt's Tree Army," acknowledged the Storyteller, "Russell worked planting trees in a western forest far from his home. They were long hard days of dirty work, but he knew he was earning a living and also doing something important for his country.  In the few lines he wrote to his parents he said, "I’m getting settled in here and look forward to sending you some money soon. This is sure a great program and Mr. Roosevelt did the right thing by getting it started."

"To be sure, there was some homesickness," insisted the Storyteller, "There always a bit of that of that sadness at being away from loved ones especially during the holidays. The camp commanders did his best to keep morale high by having the camp recreation hall decorated festively, leading sing-a-longs of Christmas carols and providing a Christmas dinner with turkey and apple pie."

"But for Russell, his favorite part of Christmas was decorating the tree," offered the Storyteller, "But, after planting hundreds of trees he just didn't have the heart to cut one down. He had heard about some fella in San Francisco by the named of Sandy Pratt who lifted the spirits of a sick 7-year-old neighbor by decorating a tree growing outside his home. Like all good ideas, it caught on and inspired others to do the same. Pratt encouraged everyone to light and decorate outdoor Christmas trees saying they would "act as beacons to prosperity and spread this cheerful message of confidence."

"So Russell, picked out a tree not too big and not too small close to camp so everyone would able to see it," recounted the Storyteller, "With decorations being sparse he painted several large pine cones green and red using from the leftover paint used on the on the camp's building. He strung some tin cans, spoons and a couple of rusty cowbells with wire and fashioned a wooden star to sit on top of the tree."

"It didn't have any lights," the Storyteller insisted, "Back then even the ones inside didn't have them either. But, it looked pretty good to Russell and to the boys in the camp as they gathered around it to sing Silent Night. They were all a long way from home that Christmas and just the sight of the tree brought them a little Christmas joy."

The Storyteller finished his story as he was pulling the roaster full of chestnuts off the fire and holding it out for the kids and adults to take one to try.
It was still hot as I picked one out and carefully removed its shell and let it cool a bit before popping it into my holiday. Its sweet, nutty flavor warmed up my holiday spirit."

"Hey kid," the Storyteller, looked up from his roaster with a slight pause gave me this advice, "No matter what, I think it’s wise to slow down, clear our heads and truly appreciate what matters this time of year. Merry Christmas."

"Merry Christmas to you too," I said.

Merry Christmas to all of you from Outside Adventure to the Max.

2018 IN REVIEW: PICTURES OF THE YEAR

And so for a time, it looked as if all the adventures were coming to an end, but that was not to be.---C. S. Lewis

It's that time of year again when I look back on some of my best images of the last year. Like always, it's difficult to narrow it down to just a dozen. I have so many favorites,  involving an anecdote or recollection behind each image captured while at the river or lake. From those fast times on the Lower American River to the slow-motion days at Sly Park each photo has its own story. So Yes it's hard to pick just a handful of pictures that stand out above the others.

A bent rack

"Someone once said that wherever I am is the perfect picture," long-time famed sports photographer Walter Iooss Jr told WPB Magazine, "I didn’t like the way it sounded but I believe that. It’s not that I’m positive of it deep down inside, it’s that I have to believe it. When you make that decision – ‘This is the place to go’ – you’ve got to live with it. There’s no alternative.”

As a young photojournalist, I followed the career of Iooss, the undisputed maestro of sports photography, boasting an exceptional career that spans over four decades. His iconic photographs of Muhammad Ali and Joe Frazier, the memorable “catch” by Dwight Clark during the 1982 NFC Championship Game, and dazzling portraits of basketball superstar Michael Jordan have been showcased in Sports Illustrated where he has over 300 covers to his credit.

Eppies Great Race training

“Photography is not a job. It’s a way of life,” he told WPB Magazine,  “I live it, think it, and feel it. It’s just in my DNA. I’ve always felt the moment."

I feel the same way. I just love taking pictures of special ripples in time and telling stories. For most of my life, I worked as a photojournalist in both print and broadcast media in a daily grind of trying to provide storytelling images or video to the folks reading the paper or watching their local TV news. At the end of every year, I would usually gather up my best of the best pictures or TV clips and send them off to an array of contests and judgings.

50+ plus paddle with Current Adventures

I won a few awards but never lost. As Iooss has said, the real joy of photography is in the discovery and magic of the moments like shots of Current Adventures' John Weed providing protection while shadowing a young paddler through his first rapid, an anniversary kiss on the water and an Eppies racing smile.
There is one of a lone paddler in the smokey veil of a wildfire and another of my wife Debbie paddling past the remnants of a past fire. There is fun on a glow paddle with Bayside Adventure Sports but also the slog of a portage back up river.

The Lower American River

“Passion, curiosity, excellence, the drive to always want to do it well,” he said Iooss, “You have to reinvent yourself. You can’t stay in one spot.”
So as 2018 draws to a close, I look back at some of my favorite moments I had kayaking with this past year.

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Current Adventures Kid Classes

Current Adventures Kid Class

Eppies Great Race training

Lake Jenkinson

Stumpy Meadows

Lake Natoma

Duck photobomb

Glow Paddle with Bayside Adventure Sports

The Lower American River

FREEZE WARNING

He said I wanna see you again. But I'm stuck in colder weather. Maybe tomorrow will be better --The Zac Brown Band

I was hoping to get one more day in. Just one more day on the water. The early winter weather had been typical and Fargo-like. The first snow had come early October, followed by another a week later. My days of paddling were quickly running out. My kayak world looked like a shaken snow globe. The dark waters of the Red River flowed past the banks of white snow in a dream-like setting. Along the shore, a thin layer of ice formed over the water. I can still recall the sound of my kayak's bow breaking through the ice. A reverberation of radio static and breaking glass echoed over the peaceful river. The Red was not a far cry from the Arctic.

"We hit a point where the ocean was all these pieces of broken ice," explorer Erik Boomer,  told Canoe and Kayak Magazine,  "It was just huge cliffs and bad ice, and the ice was traveling four or five miles a day, so a lot of movement. One idea we had was to jump out on a large piece of ice and sail it through a strait. So we hopped on some ice, set up camp, and joked about being on a big icebreaker ship."
He was recalling his epic trip with Jon Turk as they became the first paddlers to circumnavigate the 1,485-mile around Ellesmere Island, in the high Canadian Arctic in 2011. They skied and walked, towing their boats, about 850 miles, and paddled the remaining 600. "We both slipped in once—into the freezing cold Arctic Ocean. We made sure we always traveled real tight together and helped each other when we were seal launching off of a piece of ice, or climbing a piece of ice because there was always danger. And there was also danger of being squashed by the ice."

Ice would all too soon squash my plans. Thanksgiving weekend was mild and pleasant, with a little luck I thought, the weather would hold and I could paddle into December. But, a cold front rolled in freezing everything it touched. The river and lakes were entrenched with ice and snow, leaving the only memories, ghosts of days of the past season. Scottish poet Walter Scott had it right when he penned, "When dark December gloom's the day,  And takes our autumn joys away; When short and scant the sunbeam throws, Upon the weary waste of snows." My snow-covered kayak still loaded on the top of the van, was about to make its last and shortest voyage of the year... into the garage.

"One thing that we observed and talked about is how we were watching the ice change and the seasons literally go through these transitions," said Boomer, looking back on his experience in the Arctic, "It gave me a different perspective on changes and transitions. Changes and transitions are always difficult, you have to literally change your method working through it, but they’re bound to happen."

Now my boats have been loaded and unloaded off and on, and into the garage since last spring, but for me, there is something final about the last portage of the year. Lowering the kayak off the van's roof and onto the rack inside my single stall garage, I sandwiched it between two other boats along the wall. The van, only used for kayaking was then slowly backed into place in the garage as well, locked away for the winter. When the garage door shut, my kayaking was over until next spring.

"I actually don't even see my kayak when it's in storage. Your message prompted me to go out and confirm it's still where I left it!" said Heather Schmidt, who split her time between Fargo and Duluth, Minn, "What's painful for me, is seeing the water on the big lake so calm and seemingly inviting during the colder days. I don't have a wet-suit, so most of the year, paddling is out-of-bounds for me, but I still drive by the calm, beautiful water that is calling for a kayak to cut through its waters."

Withdrawal would soon occur. Psychiatrist William Glasser said, "We are driven by five genetic needs: survival, love and belonging, power, freedom, and fun." Glasser claims that positive addictions “strengthen us and make our lives more satisfying.” Positive addictions, like kayaking, enhance life. They also help us to “live with more confidence, more creativity, and more happiness, and usually in much better health."
When I stopped paddling for the season,  symptoms of kayak withdrawal seem to emerge, and from what I was told there was no cure.
"There is one thing I should warn you about before you decide to get serious about canoeing." warned paddling guru Bill Mason, "You must consider the possibility of becoming totally and incurably hooked on it. You must also face the fact that every fall about freeze-up time you go through a withdrawal period as you watch the lakes and rivers icing over one by one. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing can help a little to ease the pain, but they won’t guarantee a complete cure."

It was an unusually long winter that year in Fargo-Moorhead. Not that that wasn't out of the ordinary. I had been there for nearly 30 years and only recall a few mild ones. At -13 below it hard to find anything but frozen water anywhere. The Red River had the look of a ribbon-thin glacier splitting the two cites in half. Historians say, they use to set up bleachers on the ice and have horse-drawn sleigh races along a section of the river. Only water trickles over the rocks of the Midtown dam producing a billowing layer of ice fog gaping between the two ice masses. On cross-country ski outings along the river, I would often ponder those paddling days.
"Winter is a time of promise because there is so little to do," said writer Stanley Crawford, "Or because you can now and then permit yourself the luxury of thinking so."

Canadian sea kayaker Harvey Chris Wittenberg, put this way, "Every year lands up being a little unique with different memories," he wrote in an email,  "In Canada where six months a year we are locked in with ice. Well, it makes you appreciate the kayaking a little more. It lands up being a time to reflect. Dream up bucket-list plans for next season as well as think about new equipment and setting goals for the upcoming season."

I'm a Californian now. I can paddle every day all year-long which I still find remarkable and almost unexpected. There is no ice or snow unless I want to take my kayak up into the Sierra-Nevada Mountains for winter paddle. The thought that had crossed my mind.

During my last winter in Fargo while in a long-distance courtship with my soon to be wife, I remember how she would send me shots along the American River, coaxing me to come to California. Folks paddling along on a sunny day, while I looked out my window saw the bleakness of winter. It was like looking at a menu and not being able to order anything but frozen fish sticks while counting the days down to spring.

"So it just sorta became normal life." said Boomer, summing up his 104 days in the Arctic with Turk,  "There wasn’t anything else, and that’s really what life is. You’re there. And I think in working through those challenges, I’m hoping to bring that into my everyday life—the adventure, the excitement, the specialness of every single day, and continually taking on challenges and having fun with them.”

This article was originally published in Outside Adventure to the Max December 4. 2015

FIVE REASONS TO TRAVEL TO PERU

Photo by Danielle Villasana

BY OUTSIDE ADVENTURE TO THE MAX GUEST BLOGGER LACEY ANDERSON

Photo Courtesy of Marañón Waterkeeper

Far from the crowds that flock to southern Peru, you can get your “Indiana Jones” on in the northern territories where ancient Incan and Pre-Incan archaeological wonders rival the famed citadel of Machu Picchu. The mountains surrounding Chachapoyas in northern Peru contain the lush vegetation of the Andean cloud forests offering uncrowded conditions and unlimited adventure for the intrepid traveler. Chachapoyas (‘Chacha’ to the locals) is a quiet, colonial town with an attractive main plaza, a number of interesting churches and balconied 19th-century buildings. There are modern accommodations ranging from first-class hotels to backpacker style hostels like the Chachapoyas Backpackers, a reasonably priced hostel offering private rooms with a full-bath or dorm rooms with shared a bathroom.
Chachapoyas makes a great base from which to explore the many attractions in northern Peru. Here are my favorite must-dos in the Chacha area

Five – Trek the Inca Road

Photos Courtesy of Lacey Anderson

The Inca road system was the most advanced and longest transportation system in pre-Hispanic South America, spanning almost 25,000 miles. It began in today’s Santiago, Chile and traversed north through the Andean mountains of Peru all the way to what is now the country of Colombia. Amazingly, remnants of this road are still present in the Chacha area. This section of the Inca Road has fantastic vistas, unexcavated ruins and narrow slot sections cut into the hills by the ancient builders. To trek, a section of the Inca Road, hail a taxi to the hamlet of Levanto and look for the faded orange sign that reads Camino Pre-Hispanico. It will be an all-day hike back to Chacha, but well worth the effort.
Pro tip: You may need to ask the locals for help spotting the sign and beginning the trek. Try this phrase, “Estoy buscando el camino Pre Hispanico. ¿Sabes donde está?” (basically saying I’m looking for the Inca road). Locals are normally delighted to help a gringo. On my visit, three small children walked me to the spot where the “road” begins. This hike is for experienced trekkers only as it’s challenging to find and follow the road in some areas. Part of the time I was lost and a bit disoriented, although much of the time I was in total wonderment at the still intact record of the ancient Incan people’s remarkable accomplishment. Alternatively, you can save yourself some frustration and hire a guide in Chacha. Be sure to take plenty of water, wear comfortable hiking shoes, and bring a picnic lunch.

 

Four – Village of Cuispes and the Yumbilla Waterfalls

 

The small village of Cuispes is not well known by the world and it would be easy to overlook this place were it not for several spectacular waterfalls in the surrounding cloud forest. Most notable, Yumbilla Falls drops 2,938 feet, making it the fifth tallest waterfall in the world. This is a new discovery; it was officially measured by National Geographic in 2007. One of the best parts of a visit here is there are very few tourists; you will have the tranquility of this hike to yourself! I highly recommend staying at the scenic La Posada de Cuispes for comfortable accommodations and great food. They can arrange a local guide to open the gate and hike with you to the waterfalls.
Pro Tip: Support the local communities! Often the Peruvian government doesn’t support private reserves, hence the natural wonders of Peru are disappearing quicker than they can be saved. It took the community of Cuispes ten years to set up and build the trails leading to the waterfalls and the gates protecting the private entrance. When I went my guide was a local grandmother who also tended her llamas on the walk from town to the gates of the reserve. She was about my age and still walked my behind off.

Three – Hike to Gocta

From Cuispes, take a tuk-tuk back to Pedro Ruiz and find a taxi headed toward Chachapoyas. Tell your driver you want to stop in Cocachimba. He will likely say, “ah, por Gocta.” Once in Cocachimba purchase a pass to hike to another fabled waterfall. Gocta Falls was unknown to the world until 2005. Farmers living in the remote village of Cocachimba knew that the cloud forest hid the huge waterfall, but local legend involving an adulterous man, a jealous wife and a mythical blonde prevented villagers from visiting or talking about the falls, believing that anyone foolhardy enough to hike to Gocta was chancing a run-in with mortality. This local legend was passed around for generations.
Pro Tip: It’s best to plan an entire day to get to the tiny village of Cocachimba and then to hike the trail to the foot of the falls. Don’t worry, there are several places to stay in town. I always stay at the family owned and operated hospedaje # 950091419, close to the plaza and right off the trail. They have rooms for as low as $6 or for a little more you can have a room with private bath and views of the falls. Another option is to treat yourself to a first rate hotel, with exceptional rooms, a restaurant, and an infinity pool with a spectacular view of Gocta Falls. If that sounds appealing, check out the Gocta Andes Lodge.

Two – Explore the Fortress at Kuelap

Spend another day exploring Kuelap, one of the largest stone ruins in the world. This world heritage site is 3,000 feet higher than Chacha in the humid, mountain cloud forest of the Amazonian Andes and overlooks the Utcubamba River valley. Protective rock walls reaching 66 feet high surround Kuelap. Some of the walls are decorated with tiled zigzag patterns which are hallmarks of Chachapoya architecture. If you look carefully you’ll see murals and stone carvings depicting felines, snakes and birds, all different gods to the Chachapoya. Inside the compound, there are over 400 round buildings, which in ancient times would have been covered with steep, conical thatched roofs. There are even bones still inside some of the tombs!
Getting to Kuelap is an adventure in itself. It’s about 45 minutes from Chacha to Tingo, which sits at the base of the mountains in the Utcubamba Valley. The route to Kuelap from Tingo is via a narrow road with a series of switchbacks up to Nuevo Tingo. The road then snakes its way along one mountain and crosses over to the next mountain, all the while climbing steadily upwards. It’s a spectacular drive! Once you reach the parking lot, there’s a well-maintained path with railings and the occasional bench to one end of the ruins. It’s a moderate half-mile walk (uphill) to the ruins.
Pro Tip: Go now! Kuelap, for the time being, is one of the least visited of Peru’s archaeological sites. This could all change. During my last visit, a cable car was under construction to connect Nuevo Tingo to Kuelap. I can only assume the project is complete and making Kuelap much more accessible. The cable car ride will provide a stunning vista of the area and bypass the 90-minute long drive to the ruin site. If being suspended in a cable car isn’t your thing, Jose at Chachapoyas Backpackers can take you to Kuelap in a comfortable van.

Number One (for 2018) – Attend a Floating Film Festival on the Rio Marañón

 

Photo Courtesy of Marañón Waterkeeper

This year there’s the opportunity for travelers to join a Floating Film Festival, which will be screening Confluir in riverside villages as they raft or kayak the Rio Marañón (aka Grand Canyon of the Amazon). This film follows the month-long rafting expedition of an international team of scientists and river experts as they investigated the natural, recreational and cultural resources that will be impacted by the proposed dams on the Marañón.
Local people have protected this river for years and gave their blessing to film in their communities and on their river to tell this story. Marañón Waterkeeper is giving back by premiering the film in the villages along the river so they can be some of the first people to watch it. They hope to show the Spanish version of Confluir in as many riverside villages as possible throughout 2018. Marañón Waterkeeper is seeking support from the international boating community to make these screenings possible.
There will be several commercial rafting trips departing May-November 2018 which are open for individuals or groups to join. Each of these trips will stop in a village on their journey down the river. Armed with a projector, generator, screen and sound equipment, Confluir will be brought to the village for everyone to see. Participants of the “floating film festival” will be able to enjoy a truly unique journey down the Rio Marañón.
Pro Tip: Organize your connecting flights within Peru to arrive and depart directly from the take-out and put-in cities. This way, a seven-day section of the river can easily be completed during a single week of vacation, or go for the 14 or 30-day options if you have more time available! For more information visit the Marañón Waterkeeper’s website or email: contact@maranonexperience.com. 

Lacey Anderson says she is a river gypsy at heart. An outdoor recreation guide, she as logged over 12,000 river miles within the US, Mexico, Guatemala, and Peru. She also is an author of two camp cookbooks and contributing writer to NRS' Duct Tape Diaries. You can follow Anderson on her blog at www.nocoolers.com.

 

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