KAYAK SUMMER 2021

Above the mountains which lay beyond the further shore, the sky was murky with the smoke of unseen forest fires, and through this the afternoon sun broke feebly, throwing a vague radiance to earth, and unreal shadows. To the sky-line of the four quarters--spruce-shrouded islands, dark water, and ice-scarred rocky ridges--stretched the immaculate wilderness. --- Jack London

When summer arrived as Jack London wrote in the Call of The Wild, it's time for us to pack our backs, "Rafted across blue mountain lakes, and descended or ascended unknown rivers in slender boats whip-sawed from the standing forest....through the uncharted vastness."
In Call of the Wild, London tells the beloved classic tale of Buck's (a mix of St. Bernard and Scotch collie) transition from a kidnapped pampered pup to Klondike sled dog to his evolution to embrace the deeper parts of his wilder side. 

Lake Jenkinson

"Deep in the forest a call was sounding, and as often as he heard this call, mysteriously thrilling and luring, he felt compelled to turn his back upon the fire and the beaten earth around it, and to plunge into the forest, and on and on, he knew not where or why; nor did he wonder where or why, the call sounding imperiously, deep in the forest,” wrote London of the Buck's instinctual call of the wilderness.
For those of us with a wanderlust soul, London's words stir our senses of adventure. For some, we have that need to answer that call of the wild. When summertime, comes it is our time to pack our packs, load our boats, and journey into the world around us. However, London's darker views can convolute our ideals of the inspiring novelist writing about dogs and the Alaskan frontier. In his time, London was an unashamed racist and a prominent advocate of socialism, casting a problematic shadow over his love of the wilderness and making him a bit more a complicated storyteller.

Much like London, summertime 2021 brought plenty of contradictions and complications to the great outdoors. Even as summer ends this year, we still don't have a handle on the Covid-19 pandemic. As the Delta variant increases, there is still a debate on getting the vaccine and wearing masks. Still the due to the upheaval from COVID-19, Americans across the country took to the outdoors. The 2021 Outdoor Participation Trends Report, commissioned by the Outdoor Foundation, reveals that in 2020, 53 percent of Americans ages six and over participated in outdoor recreation at least once, the highest participation rate on record. Some 7.1 million more Americans participated in outdoor recreation in 2020 than in the year prior. 

Lake Jenkinson

And it's secret that a lot of those folks headed to the water, and paddle sports sales exploded.
And as the paddling industry boom and people flocked to the water, there is still a huge lack of diversity. According to the same report, nearly 75 percent of outdoor participants were white. Participation rates declined 7 percent annually among Asian Americans for the past three years; stagnated for the last three years among Blacks and grew among Hispanics but remained well below whites.
Fortunately, the paddling community is recognizing people of color love the outdoors. Advocates are working to tear down barriers and diversifying the sport for all participants. California-based groups like Outdoor Afro and Vamos Afuera (Let’s Go Outside) have organized frequent outings to paddleboard, kayak, and explore magical places like Yosemite.

Climate change is another issue facing California. Summers get hotter, drier, and smokier due to another extended fire season. This summer, the Caldor Fire closed us down early at Sly Park as the blazed raged just to the south of the park and lake.
“These fires are blinking code red for our nation. They’re gaining frequency and ferocity, and we know what we’re supposed to do. Scientists have been warning us for years [that] extreme weather is going to get more extreme. We’re living it in real-time now,” President Joe Biden said after taking an aerial tour of land burned by the Caldor Fire last week. 

Sly Park Paddle Rentals on Lake Jenkinson

Despite the fire, my season at the boathouse was shortened anyway. Lake Jenkinson fell to record levels along with many other California reservoirs during this season of drought. All through the summer, the lake continued to shrink in size and depth. Each week I would return and find less and less water in the lake.

Regardless of all those arduous issues, my summer season flashed by again a golden haze. Once again, those months came and went so quickly.  Now in September, I'm looking back on a hectic summer of cross-country trips, boathouse days, paddling nights, and a very adventuresome trip down the South Fork of the America River. I've enjoyed hearing the sweet cadences of water ripples over rocks, seeing the vividly mirrored placid lake, and feeling the cool water on a moonlight swims while the stars danced over the trees. 

Moon over Wyoming 

But as London wrote in The Faith of Men, a collection of adventure tales set in the Yukon Territory, "Then came the autumn, post-haste before the down rush of winter. The air grew thin and sharp, the days thin and short. The river ran sluggishly, and skin ice formed in the quiet eddies. All migratory life departed south, and silence fell upon the land."

It's time now to transition into the colder months of the season while still, remembering fall which is still a great time to get outside. The appearance of autumn does not call for the disappearance of kayaks or standup paddleboards. Fall and wintertime waters offer a quieter and solitary experience. Who doesn't appreciate fewer bugs, crowds, and empty parking spots at the access? To provide a transition from swimsuits to wetsuits, I picked favorite images created over the past few months to help recall the past season to help you cruise through to until next summer. 

Bayside Adventure Sports on Lake Jenkinson

Canoeing on Lake Jenkinson

The South Fork of the American River. Photo by Hot Shot Imaging

Smoke over Lake Jenkinson

Power Paddle

Lake Natoma

Lake Jenkinson

Sailing on Elliot Bay in Seattle

Lake Natoma 

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BOATHOUSE DAYS, MY FOURTH SUMMER ON LAKE JENKINSON

After struggling through the Covid pandemic last season, I was hoping for a new bright season while working at the Sly Park Paddle Rentals located on the upper part of Lake Jenkinson at Sly Park Recreation Area in the Sierra foothills near Pollock Pines, California. For the past four summers, I had been there almost every weekend, renting out kayaks, canoes, and paddleboards to anyone who wanted to come out and paddle the lake.

When teeming with water, the timber-lined lake is a boater's paradise. Divided by a narrow channel, Jenkinson Lake's larger rounded half is where you will find the swimming beach and campgrounds along with a good share of speedboats. While the upper half of the lake, being smaller and, narrower has more of a summer camp feel where canoes are still paddled with glee. Two babbling creeks, a scenic waterfall, and its icy pool only add to the lake's beauty and charm. 

When we started the season, the lake level was already as low as it was, back in September when we closed for the season. The Park Rangers told me it would only get lower as the summer continued.
This year was also going to be different because we weren't the only showing town. There was a lot more to do. With no travel restrictions, people now were going to restaurants, movies, and ballgames.
We had to make the best of the time that we had.
So like I have done over the past couple of seasons before, I began collecting notes, recounting my daily routine along with my observations of my days at the boathouse.

Saturday, May 8...Moving day at Sly Park. We packed two trailers of boats and canoes and brought them up to the lake. The lake is low but still looks good, at least until the middle of summer. I don't know when the water will stop coming. It is likely it will be a very dry summer. 
Friday, May 28...A quiet day as we kick off the summer season. Not many reservations, and so far, only a handful of walk-ups. Tomorrow looks like it will be busier.
The lake is low and not ready for swimming just yet. It's a bit too cold. It could use some more water, but after the third driest winter in California history, I think this is the best of what I can expect this season. 

Monday, May 31...Memorial Day. Both Saturday and Sunday proved to be very busy. After locking up, I took off to Sly Park Falls. Usually, the water is very high this time of year. However, this summer, the lake is very thirsty. I had to hike most of the way on the trail after paddling to the creek. I love coming to the falls at the end of the day. It is when the place is quiet. All you can hear is the sound of rushing water. Peaceful and relaxing. This is how I wish it could be all this all season.
I have three young ducks living near the dock. They like to find food around it. They appear to be orphans since I have seen no mother duck nearby watching them. They go under the dock back and forth and appear to be doing well. Meanwhile, some angler caught and happily released a nice-sized bass, I think to be Roger, who swims under the dock. My highlight last night was seeing the eagle of the lake sitting on a stump near Sly Park Creek. 

Friday, June 4...The lake has plenty of beaches this spring. I tell my customers that they can pretty much have their choice of any beach spots once they get on the water. With the lake so low, it's not difficult to find a spot.
I miss those days when there was a bit more water in the lake. It was always pretty amazing to paddle up to the bridge toward the rumbling of the waterfall. Its roar got louder and louder with each paddle stroke.
Hazel creek has never had the same appeal. It's like a boring straight-laced sister compared to the 33-foot dazzling display of falling water. However, last Monday, the creek was flowing quickly into the lake. Cold and icy water came in a rapid flow down toward the lake. I was tempted to surf it for a while, but it was not quite deep enough. When I turned my kayak, I got caught sideways pouring the cold water into my cockpit. I nearly rolled. Of course, I laughed. It was funny to be such a spot like a boat that's stuck in the Suez Canal sideways against the wall. My kayak is 16-foot, while the channel of the Hazel Creek was only 15-foot at the most. It would have been embarrassing if I had rolled.

The waterfall didn't flow after June. In the past, I would paddle up to the waterfall on the 4th of July. But this year, it wasn't flowing. It had been shut off.
Sly Park Falls is the jewel of the park. The waterfall trail is always a popular hike. Ordinarily, in the summer, the falls were filled with rushing water, splashing, and laughter as families came to visit the shaded pool. Now it was just a dribble.
For the past couple of seasons, I had usually worked alone at the boathouse. But this year, Current Adventures owner Dan Crandall sent up a young assistant to help me out on the busy weekends.
Teddy was a likable person who enjoyed working at the boathouse as much as I did. Bright and friendly the customers liked him just as much as I did. 

By July, There was no paddling up to the waterfall. There was no paddling even up Sly Creek. Instead of rushing cool water, there were dry stones and mucky silt. Every week, the bathtub ring around their lake grew larger. Tree stumps and boulders were rising from depths, and the lake wasn't as pretty as it had been before.

Sunday, June 6...It was steady Saturday at the boathouse yesterday. I even have a new helper that day. Teddy is just 18-years-old and was there to help me out. We had lots of reservations and many walk-ups all day. A likable person who usually works at the River Store.
The lake is still very low, is also very inviting. I have been able to jump in and swim. The water is very comfortable.
Friday, June 18...A very hot day at the lake. A very hot day all over California. The highs are all record highs of heat over 100 degrees. Dangerous to even some. Down in the valley, they are really suffering and trying hard to escape the heat. Up here, It was much better. Early on, there wasn't even a breeze. Teddy and I felt it as the heat bounced off the aluminum dock right back at us, cooking us like bacon on a skillet.

Friday, June 11...I escaped a bit and spent a share of the time observing the eagle of the lake. I think it's a young male. He has been flying around the boathouse this morning. So far, he is my only entertainment on an otherwise quiet day on the lake. In Minnesota, it is said every lake has its own loon. I would like to think that in the foothills of California, every lake should have its own eagle.
Sunday, June 13...Another busy day. The highlight being, my friend, Kelly, dropping by with a plate of BBQ ribs, salad, and of course, apple pie. Needless to say, She got a free rental. Like my wife Debbie, this is one of her favorite places to visit.
Saturday, June 19...The night before, I lead a sunset/moonlight paddle for Current Adventures. I had 7 adults and 2 kids, one of which I had to tow for a bit. The lake is so low it doesn't attract the same thrill, but there is still something special about a quiet evening on the lake as the sun slowly sets. In the spring, when there is a lot of water, we can kayak all the way to the bridge and have a short walk to the falls, but last night with the water so low, we had to hike a good portion and to make it even worse the pretty falls were not flowing and, the water had been turned off. It was disappointing because usually, it is my star attraction on this paddle. 

Sunday, June 26...Our boat ramp now touches the piece of pavement. After this, it's all dirt and sand. When we started the season, I think we were at least up 3 or 4 blocks. It doesn't look good for the rest of the summer. The lake is sitting at 75%, which is dismal for the last week of June. I told Teddy that this is what it looked like when we closed for the season last September.
Crazy fun stuff. This is National Canoe Day, and we didn't rent a single one. I guess that means I'll have to take one out for a ride at the end of the day.
Saturday, July 3...A good day at the dock. We were busy throughout the day. All our tandem boats went hit the water, and a good chunk of our day, our dock was empty.

Week after week, the walk to the boathouse got longer and longer. I got handy with a rake and a shovel extending my path after the cement ran. I outlined the trail with rocks and dead tree branches. Meanwhile, around the boathouse, sunken tree stumps rose from the depths of the lake each week.
Keeping the boathouse inline due to afternoon winds and lowering it into the lake came almost a weekly routine.
Still, I did enjoy the fringe benefits of running the boathouse with some canoe time after hours and especially nice when the speed boats were gone.
Toward mid-July, the first sign of threat to fire came as a helicopter showed up hovering over the lake like a hummingbird taking buckets of water to a fire. Little did we know at the time that it would be a sign of things to come for the lake and area.

Monday July 5...Last night, while I was out paddling, the rangers came by and moved the dock further out into the water. We lost some 7 feet. Now my customers will have to walk over mud and sand to get to our dock. I created a little nature trail to outline the path of logs and stones marking the trail.
Sunday, July 11...It's going to be another scorcher here on the lake. With no breeze, it's especially hot out on the deck. Yikes, it burns my bare feet!
The excitement came in the afternoon when after a report of a nearby fire. A big Chinook helicopter showed and took several loads of lake water to dose the fire. It hovered over the lake, dropping in large buckets, and scooping the water up, and flying away. 

Friday, July 16...The lake is holding steady at 72%, according to the sign at the gate. It does look down several feet at the boathouse. A nearby tree stump where a kid was standing last week made him look like he is walking on water is now down about another foot.
Friday, July 23...It's a bright and clear day. There is a bit of a breeze, but that's OK. It's keeping the smoke away from the fire that is in the east. I can see the smoky haze over the pines of Sly Park Creek. This is going to be a very long fire season.
Friday, July 30...The water which we don't have much of all dropped again. They moved my dock down into the shrinking lake. I was greeted by a sign at the front gate saying 15 mph as of August 9th.
Saturday, July 31...When I got to the boathouse, I met up with the ranger staff as we again lowered the dock further into the water and straighten it out. It seems this summer it has become a weekly occurrence. After that, I raked out another section of my long path down to the dock. 

During our summer, my customers would ask when would be the last day we would be renting out our kayaking. In the past, we went into September weekends. I mean, who wouldn't want to take a boat ride after taking a trip to Apple hill. But this season, we hoped to end on Labor Day weekend, but it would depend on how much water was still in the lake if it would be sooner. Little did we know that the Caldor Fire would abruptly end our season on the lake by shutting down the park. Instead of watching boats come and go, I'm checking the fire maps And Facebook posts and praying that the park and my houseboat house Are not destroyed by fire

Sunday, August 1...The lake is quiet and still to start this morning. At this time, any sound would seem sacrileges. Breaking the stillness of the water would be like putting a black line through the Mona Lisa. I wish it could stay like this all day. It would be wonderful to escape the daily battering winds that drive the waves up in the afternoon. Yesterday it pushed my dock around more than ever.
A good evening paddle last night as I paddled to the island and back in the fading sunlight. Not much for waves as all the motorboats were headed for home. They will be off the water soon anyway as the speed restrictions will be put in place next week. Our days are numbered, also. We won't get so much past September with the current water situation. 

 

Friday, August 6...A smoky day in the valley and a very smoky day here at the lake. The sun barely shines through the smoke-filled clouds. It is a great day indeed. The haze intertwines through the tall trees. By 2 in the afternoon, I could not even see across the lake as even more smoke blew the shore became more and more obscure. The lake is has been disappearing with the loss of the water and now the trees. It's by far the worst I have ever seen here on the lake. It's been that kind of year.
Sunday, August 15...Quiet start to the day. It is very still with the new speed restrictions. It will be a paddler's paradise now with the big boats off the water.
The rangers came and set my dock once again. While in the afternoon, a helicopter appeared on the lower part of the lake, taking more loads of water to a fire burning just south of the park.

Like many, we're waiting for all clear to get back into the park. The good news finally came this week. El Dorado Irrigation District announced, in light of the recent downgrades of the fire evacuation orders, Sly Park Recreation Area will reopen this weekend. According to a news release, the park sustained minimal damage during the Caldor Fire. The only damage to the park was caused by a back burn operation below the dams that have necessitated the closure of the trail system in that area. Horseback riders cannot circle the lake due to the trail closure. Other than that, the park was untouched by the flames, which is great news.
However, while the park is open, Sly Park Paddle Rentals is closed for the season. We'd like to thank all the Rangers and park staff who helped us keep afloat during the season and our amazing customers for their patronage of making a long walk down the hill to our boathouse.
The good news is we'll be back next year. Until then, we pray for the firefighters and the people displaced by the fire. But most of all, we hope for rain and snow to come to California this winter. To dampen the threats of fires and fill our beloved lake with water.

If you want to go on a canoe or kayak trip at Sly Park contact:
Current Adventures Kayak School and Trips 
PHONE: 530-333-9115 or Toll-Free: 888-452-9254
FAX: 530-333-1291
USPS: Current Adventures, P.O. Box 828, Lotus, CA 95651
info@currentadventures.com
owner Dan Crandall dan@kayaking.com

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UP IN SMOKE

“But clouds bellied out in the sultry heat, the sky cracked open with a crimson gash, spewed flame-and the ancient forest began to smoke. By morning there was a mass of booming, fiery tongues, a hissing, crashing, howling all around, half the sky black with smoke, and the bloodied sun just barely visible. ---  Yevgeny Zamyatin

I'm not a fair-weather paddler. Not in the least. I have paddled on cold November days in Minnesota with icicles clinging to my Mambas. I have kayaked in gusty winds where the waves zapped my energy, and my destination seems to get further away with every forward stroke. And of course, I have paddled in the heavy downpours of rain. I have been soaked to the skin, exciting my senses to hear and see a thousand drops and splashes on the lake.
It is the end of summer now, and it should be the perfect time for paddling and camping adventures. But it's not. I look out my office window into an orange glow of haze. It seems odd that after being isolated during the Covid pandemic where we had to sit in our homes a good chunk of last year, that we are all now forced back inside looking out for pretty much the same reason. It's not safe to breathe the air.

For most of the summer, California has been contending with wildfires. It has become almost an annual battle Throughout the state as the fire season starts earlier and earlier every year. The smoke from these fires has made it unhealthy just to be outside, let alone being on a river or a lake. It has become extremely frustrating to area paddlers
"My summer has been interrupted with all those wildfires, closing several lakes and venues. Even locally recently, the air quality was really bad keeping us/me stuck indoors, while it's hotter than hell outside and unhealthy to breathe the air as well," wrote my paddling partner John Taylor on Facebook this past week.

Last weekend, the wildfires burning in Northern California, including the rapidly expanding Caldor fire that now even threatens Lake Tahoe, are affecting more people than those forced to evacuate.
Its smoke has choked the skies of the region sending the air quality index to unhealthy levels. Medical experts say that when the Air Quality Index exceeds 201 to 300, the air is judged to be very unhealthy. Children, asthmatics, and people with heart or lung conditions should avoid the outdoors, and all others should reduce their outdoor exertion. When the Air Quality Index goes over 300, it is hazardous for everyone.

The effects of smoky air pollution can be mild, like eye and throat irritation, or serious, including heart and respiratory issues. They can also linger even after the smoke has cleared, as pollution can cause inflammation of the lung tissue and increase the vulnerability to infections.
Simply put. On days like those, it's a good idea to keep your boat, paddle at home, and stay inside.

The unbearable part is why I'm worried about losing a summertime paddling day. People are losing their homes and their livelihoods every day. They've been evacuated from the dangerous areas, as firefighters battle the flames that every day seem to get bigger and bigger. My heart is also breaking for those beautiful places that are now lost. For those historic places that have been turned into ashes. And for the wildlife that can't outrun the flames. It is sad to think, that the majority of wildlife mortalities will come later, after the fire is out, due to the loss of habitat and food sources burned in the path of the fire. 

Since early July, 93 large wildfires have destroyed more than 2.5 million acres. Fires are currently burning in 13 states, according to the National Interagency Fire Center. The skies near these fires are thick with smoke but also impacted air quality several thousand miles away. The sun glowed red-orange as haze as the east coast has experienced similar smoky conditions this summer.
“We’re seeing lots of fires producing a tremendous amount of smoke, and … by the time that smoke gets to the eastern portion of the country where it’s usually thinned out, there’s just so much smoke in the atmosphere from all these fires that it’s still pretty thick,” said David Lawrence, a meteorologist with the National Weather Service told media outlets, “Over the last two years we’ve seen this phenomenon.”

Weather watchers say, that these devastating effects of the wildfires have been exacerbated by the effects of climate change and it is only likely to worsen in the future.

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OVER THE BOW: FOLSOM LAKE

It's a long way to the lake even after you enter the park. Following the bumpy dirt trail is a Mars rover experience as I made my way slowly down to the water. There is no vegetation to speak of, only rusty-colored sand, rocks, dried silt. I follow the tire tracks of the other land rovers, hoping they lead me to the water. Glancing down at my GPS monitor, I have to chuckle when seeing the dot that represents me, and my truck laden with kayaks is deep into the blue with what should be Folsom Reservoir.
However, there is water in view. In the haze of wildfire smoke, the lake was a grey and narrow band of water reaching northeast toward Auburn. A skeleton of it is what it usually is this time of the year. When on the water, the lake is void of the usual landmarks.
This year is the second driest year on record since 1977 and northern California man-made reservoirs like Folsom Lake SRA are at their lowest.

Climate change surrounds us with irregular seasons and rising sea levels. From the devastating melting occurring at the Arctic Ocean’s ice sheets to the destructive flooding wreaking havoc in the south and Europe. And of course, the droughts and wildfires are affecting the western part of the United States.

Climate activist Aneesa Khan reminded us that it’s very much in the here and now," when she said,
“Climate change isn't something in the future. That narrative is fundamentally flawed because there are millions impacted and so many displaced already. That is the new inconvenient truth that no one wants to hear.”

Over the Bow is a feature from Outside Adventure to the Max, telling the story behind the image. If you have a great picture with a great story, submit it to us at nickayak@gmail.com

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WAITING FOR METEORS

Laying on the granite beach on a Sierra mountain high lake in the darkness has become a customary occurrence for me. The new moon is only a sliver. That will only enhance tonight's viewing of the night sky. Overhead the blueish-white stat Vega gleams in gleams down. While in between two the east mountain peaks, Saturn and Jupiter seem to be chasing each other as they climb in the sky. A fuzzy band of light in the sky, known as the Milky Way, spans across the heavens. And of course, the Big Dipper and (Polaris) points to the north.
It's more than dazzling. It's mind-blowing. To think that our galaxy, is so big, so endless, and so unknown. It is only the most remote regions on earth, like here in the high Sierra-Nevada mountains, where the night skies are dark enough to put on a show in this heavenly body.

"You can feel the stars and the infinity of the sky since life, in spite of everything, is like a dream." attributed to painter Vincent Van Gogh.

However, patience will be needed, for tonight's main attraction. The Perseid Meteor shower is a dazzling display of nature's fireworks that come every August. It is more of a sprinkle than a downpour. There's a waiting period between each burst of fiery light that requires determination and maybe a little luck.
"You never know when one of these fireballs is going to shake you to your core," Jackie Faherty, an astrophysicist at the American Museum of Natural History in New York told NPPR in a radio interview, "The unexpected thing is what you should be hoping that you're going to get, which is a nice big bright one that's going to outshine all the stars - that's going to look like it's going to scare you."
 

Seeing the meteors streak across the sky was a bonus while being on this alpine lake. At 6,378 feet, Loon Lake has no trouble touching the heavens. Sitting about 100-feet higher than Lake Tahoe in the northern section of the Crystal Basin Recreation Area in the Eldorado National Forest along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the lake is the perfect backdrop for kayak camping. Offering pristine blue water, textured granite shore, and by day awe-inspiring views, one could find no better wilderness for solitude and tranquility.

For three years in a row, I have led members of Bayside Adventure Sports, a Sacramento faith-based group, on a one-of-kind kayak camping trip to the far end of the lake. During the days, we'd explored the coves, bays, and islands of the lake, slowing meandering around glaciers exposed granite boulders dotting the shoreline. And once again, after dinner, we'd enjoy a breathtakingly stunning sunset across the western horizon during a cruise on the breathless water of the lake. 

After our sunset paddle, we'd normally have retired by a cozy campfire. But without fire restrictions, we would have to depend on the meteors to light up the night. We reclined along the rocky beach, looking towards the sky. There is a dazzling array of stars above us. In quiet contemplation, Our thoughts navigate us through time and space. How long does it take the light of the stars to touch the earth? Can those satellites see us from above? Where are those meteors?

"The one thing that I always recommend that everybody bring with them when you watch a meteor shower is patience," Faherty told NPPR.

 
We wait, stare and ponder, then in an instant. Our thoughts are suddenly disrupted by a flash of a meteor's tale. Fourth of July-like oohs and awes charge the air as the fireball streaks across the sky. But, the shooting star is gone much too quickly. However, it's an experience we will remember for a lifetime. Seeing a falling star is always special, however, catching it with friends while kayaking a high Sierra lake is simply magical.

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WHITEWATER RAFTING THE GORGE OF THE SOUTH FORK OF THE AMERICAN RIVER

Between the rock and the hard place, the river narrows and finds it way. --- Peter Heller

As a kayaker, I've never really thought much about whitewater rafting. It was something river tourists did. But, not guys who regularly kayak. Kayaks are sleek, nimble, and fast. A good paddler can control their movements on the water and seek out eddies to catch and waves to surf, while those rafts are big, bulky, and cumbersome. It's been my experience while on the Lower American River that those rafts are slow and a little boring as they aimlessly drift in the current. Holding a beer can instead of a paddle, those folks watch me paddle by having all the fun.

So when Sydney Strange invited my wife Debbie and me for a trip down the South Fork of the American River, I didn't know what to expect. And nor did I know I would have the time of my life.
The South Fork of the American River is one of the most popular destinations for whitewater kayaking and rafting in all of California. The site which spawned the Gold Rush now attracts thrill-seekers of every age looking for that rush of adrenaline and excitement. The first 5 miles from the Chili Bar access is brimming full of Class III rapids with intimidating names like Meat-grinder and Trouble Maker. The so-called easy section runs from the Marshall Gold Discovery Historical State Park access to the Greenwood Creek through the valley consisting of several Class II rapids, including a popular surf spot named Barking Dog.

Raft guide Sydney Strange

It's a warm-up for "The Gorge." Descending at 33-feet per mile toward Folsom Lake for 10 miles, the river moves and moves fast, featuring the river's most challenging series of Class III rapids with even more fearsome and heart-pumping handles like Satan's Cesspool, Scissors, and its last big drop called Hospital Bar. I had never paddled it before, but I certainly had heard the stories of all the fabled rapids.
After shuttling our vehicles in place, Debbie and I met Sydney, her mom, and another friend at the Whitewater Excitement, where she's a river guide. Young, slender, and athletic, Sydney is a recent high school grad in her rookie season on the river. Sydney, however, had the confidence of a veteran. As our boat captain for the day, she would be in charge. In giving us a few instructions just after hitting the river. She told those of us in the front of the raft to paddle in sync, which proved to be a little tricky at first. When she would call for us to forward paddle, we would lean forward and forward paddle. When she called for us to back paddle, we would lean forward with our paddles in hand and pull our blades backward. When she commanded the two on the right to back paddle, while the on the two left to forward paddle, we would coordinate our strokes in kind. And most important, when she ordered us to paddle forward hard, we would dig our paddles into the stream and paddle as hard as we could until she called for us to stop.

Now in my whitewater kayak, I would've been dodging the rocks and boulders of Highway Rapids, but the big raft flew over them and danced over the waves of Swimmer Rapids with little effort. From here on would be an uncharted country for me. My whitewater skills are not quite up "The Gorge" just yet. I had never had gone past this Greenwood access till that day. 

Debbie Carlson

A popular destination for whitewater rafting, we followed, as well as led, a parade of rafts full of kids, chaperones, parents, and their river guides down the narrowing stream past landmark rocks along the river that resembles an alligator and a gorilla. At Gorilla Rock, some of the raft guides pulled aside to let brave daredevils leap off the rock into the deep pool before proceeding on.
My wife Debbie had been smiling and laughing the whole way like a kid on a roller coaster. While she had paddled countless times with me, this was her first whitewater experience.
"It's so beautiful here on the river. I can't believe I've lived here this long and have never done this," Debbie told us, "We'll have to do this every year from now on."

Seeing the large tree on top of the mountain called the Lollipop tree marks the beginning of the storied "Gorge." It's here where the river drops, the channel narrows, and the canyon walls get steep, creating large standing waves. If you are not holding on to your hat, you'll most likely lose it at Lost Hat Rapids, a series of drops and massive waves, leading up to Satan's Cesspool.
Guiding and steering from the back of the raft, Sydney had already lead us through some incredibly fun and splashing waves with assurance and calm. Even when the raft got pin-up against some rocks, she would coolly pry us off the boulder with her paddle or order us all to the other side of the raft to lift the weight off the boat off the boulder, letting us free. She was doing all the work, and we were having all the fun.
"Here comes Satan's," Sydney called out over the rushing foam, "This is where all the photographers hang out. Paddle hard on my command!"

Photo by Hotshot Imaging

 Satan's Cesspool at Class III is was one of the most feared rapids on the South Fork. Our blue raft followed the current that eased to the left, then swiftly turned to the right. Paddling hard from my position up in front, I could only glance up at my photo op before crashing down into a frothy hole that bent out our boat like a blueberry fruit rollup. If it hadn't for the foot loop at the bottom of the boat, I would have sailed overboard into the deluge. Meanwhile, Debbie, who was behind me, crashed forward into me like we were dominoes.
We were suddenly caught in the maelstrom, between the rock and the thundering river. The raft wouldn't budge off the rocks. In the rush of the water, we somehow got turned around on this thrill ride. I look up for an instant and see the photographers documenting our mishap like we were the flaming Hindenburg.

From then, my memory is blurry, all I can remember is our paddling crew laughing very loudly, as we tried to push our boat off the rocks. Sydney somehow got us off the rocks and back into the flow of the river. We only had a little time to catch our breath. More we continue to approach even more rapids.
"The Gorge" constricts even more as the colossal diagonal standing waves bounced us and the inflatable boat down the stream like a dribbling a basketball on a fast break. At the peak of each wave, we'd hold our breath only to toboggan down its slope with enough momentum to climb the next oncoming wave. Crashing into each wave, we were showered, with a churning hurricane of water with each drop.
"There's one more big one." Sydney told us, "Get ready."
"The Gorge's" last huge drop is called Hospital Bar Rapids, not because its huge series of waves that has been know to flip boats and wipe out paddlers, but because it was named a medical outpost set up here during the Gold Rush.
Our raft fell down its chute that twisted left and the right till another watery splashdown. We rode those bucking waves like a rodeo bronco getting a perfect score. We cheered with a paddle high-five. Lifting our paddles into the air above our heads, clicking them together in celebration.

Our Whitewater Rafting Crew

 In this year of low water, there were a few more rapids to run before we caught sight of the Salmon Falls Bridge and our takeout. Usually, they are underwater in Folsom Reservoir, so we enjoyed a little bonus round of whitewater to send us off smiling.
Thanks to our guide Sydney, My first trip down the Gorge was memorable. I look forward to many more trips down it in the future. And maybe even one day in my whitewater kayak.

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AN ESSENTIAL CHOICE: CHOOSING THE PFD THAT BEST SUITS YOUR NEEDS

The PFD Wall at the River Store

First things first. If you know you're going out on the water, whether in a kayak, canoe, or SUP you should already know you you need a life jacket or personal flotation device, AKA a PFD.
According to the World Health Organization, Drowning is the 3rd leading cause of unintentional injury death worldwide, accounting for 7% of all injury-related deaths. Children, males, and individuals with increased access to water are most at risk of drowning. 
So think safety folks. As the saying goes, "The best lifejacket is the one you will wear." 
Personal flotation devices (PFD) have come along way since you buckled on that dingy orange big and bulky lifejacket at summer camp for your first canoe trip. Today's PFDs are more comfortable and available in a wide variety of shapes, colors, and sizes.

Kristin Kettenhofen

But with so many styles and features, how do you choose a PFD that is just right for you?
We floated a few questions to The River Store manager Kristin Kettenhofen to help us out with some expert advice on selecting a PFD.

OAM: What are people looking for in a PFD when they come into The River Store?
KK: We get a wide variety of people coming into the store looking to purchase a PFD from long time river guides to people up for the day wanting to go inner-tubing. Most people I would say are looking for the best "bang for their buck" so to speak.

OAM: There are a lot of PFDs on the wall. How do you break it down to the customer to the one that works best?
KK: They don't make just one style of PFD for a reason! There are so many different body types, personal needs, and overall comfort that are to be considered when getting a PFD. What one of us at the shop may view as the best fitting and most comfortable PFD may not be how the next customer feels when they try it on.
I break it down by first asking what they are going to be doing on the water and if they need a rescue PFD of non-rescue PFD. From there, I will talk to them about pocket space and any other features on the PFD they may be looking for.
Pocket space is usually the make it or break it point on a PFD purchase for a lot of people. From there, I will have them try on a few different styles that hit most of their wants/needs and we try to narrow it down to the perfect PFD for them.

OAM: They all seem to have some great features. What are some of your favorite in today's PFDs?
KK: I personally own an Astral Green Jacket and a Stohlquist Rocker. Both are big sellers here at the shop. I find them both equally comfortable, useful, and stylish. Because let's be honest, looking good on the river is important too! 

The Green Jacket is a big seller because of its large clamshell pocket, which can hold almost everything you want to put in it!

OAM: Describe the perfect fit for a PFD.
KK: I like to describe the perfect fit for a PFD like a nice hug. Not too tight but not too loose! That guideline is easy for people to understand and has helped get a lot of people into the best fit PFD for them.

OAM: Everyone knows men and women have different bodies. Tell us how the PFD makers accommodate their women customers?
KK: There are a handful of women's specific PFDs on the market like the Stohlquist Betsea, Astral Layla, Kokatat Naiad. What makes them different from a unisex PFD is they typically have thinner foam in the chest and for some, they have a shorter torso cut as most women do not have a long torso.

OAM: What's the difference between regular PFDs and rescue PFDs? 
KK: The most obvious difference between a rescue PFD and a non-rescue PFD is the quick release safety belt that is on every rescue PFD. This belt is a webbing strap with a high visibility quick release buckle and a metal O-ring that is secured to the PFD and wraps around the wearer's midsection.
Rescue PFDs are designed for special use and it is highly recommended that you only use a rescue PFD once you have taken swift water rescue training to learn how to use the rescue PFD among other valuable things that are taught in those courses.
The not an obvious difference between a rescue PFD and a non-rescue PFD is the USCG rating. A non-rescue PFD rated for use on the river is a Type III PFD. The USCG defines a Type III PFD as follows: For general boating or the specialized activity that is marked on the device such as water skiing, hunting, fishing, canoeing, kayaking, and others. Good for calm, inland waters, or where there is a good chance for fast rescue.
A rescue PFD also known as a Type V PFD is defined by the USCG as: Only for special uses or conditions.
It is important to know that a Type V PFD is everything that a Type III PFD is just with some additional features including the quick release belt and typically more pocket space.

OAM: The customer says they may want to rescue vest, but do they really need one?
KK: There are pros to having a rescue PFD if you know how to use all the features the jacket may have.

But, when people are looking at buying a rescue PFD, I will always ask if they have taken a swift rescue course. If they haven't, I encourage them to take one within the year, if they do purchase the rescue PFD. 

At the end of the day, if someone does want to purchase a rescue PFD, it's up to them. We are here to educate everyone as best we can on what gear will be best for them.

OAM: Does the customer need a new one? How do you school-up a customer that it might be time to update their PFD?
KK: If their PFD is as old or older than me then it is FOR SURE time to get a new one. Many people come by the shop with PFDs that are over 10 years old, which we recommend that they replace.
For your average boater, the PFDs have a lifespan of around 5 years, give or take. For your above average boater, someone who is on the water 200+ days out of the year, replacing your PFD every few years isn't abnormal
A good way to judge if your PFD needs to be replaced is to take a look at how the sun faded the fabric is and if there are any stitches that have busted or broken buckles.

Another way to tell if your PFD needs to be replaced and the most important function of a PFD is how well it floats in you flat water, let alone on whitewater. 

If you wear your PFD in a pool and it's barely floating you above the water, it won't float you in whitewater the way that it should. That is a good indication that the PFD needs to be replaced.

Today’s PFDs are comfortable and versatile. Finding the right one for you and your paddling style is essential when getting out on to the water. Choose the PFD that best fits your needs. If it's comfortable and well fitted you’ll actually enjoy wearing and never want to leave the shore without wearing it.


If you want more information about Kristin Kettenhofen recommendations for PFDs, you can contact her at The River Store at info@TheRiverStore.com

We are always looking for guest bloggers to share the stories and pictures of their adventure.

 

This article was originally published Outside Adventure to the Max on June 26, 2020

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